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白菜のサラダ
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グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
全国で活躍するレビュアー
飲食店専門の求人サイト
「Yu Yue Heen」のミシュラン一つ星という肩書は、
この店にとって装飾ではなく、
自分たちを律するための枠のような気がした
料理は、派手ではない
むしろ過剰な演出を拒むように淡々としている
印象的だったのは、白菜のサラダだ
ただ技術と時間だけを積み上げて作る”静かな料理”
薄い層を重ねた白菜が、口の中でわずかに音をたててほどける
ほのかな酸味が広がった
僕にとっては、極めて個人的で、内的な体験だった
料理は、豊かさの象徴ではない
欲望を刺激する装置でもない
むしろ、人間が混沌のなかで失いかけた感覚を
そっと取り戻してくれるものだ
あの白菜サラダを食べた時は、
未来は、もっとシンプルなものになるんじゃなかろうか・・という
そんな錯覚が生まれた
料理は時に、シェフよりも雄弁だ
「Yu Yue Heen」の一皿は、
広州という巨大な街を背景にしながら、
不思議なくらい控えめで
不思議なくらい誠実だった