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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
芝蘭、総厨、下風さん、急逝…
心から合掌と私の悔い
日本で一番二番の四川達人
もうひと方は、菰田さんか…
心から合掌で悲しいばかり…
・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・・
出汁の良さと丁寧な・・・
この2008 10 にて、芝蘭銀座店の復活
白い内装が新鮮で、ますます赤い料理が冴える
出汁の妙と丁寧な・・・
簡単なものが美味い、
平日の昼餐はやはりフリーの食べ放題パターン！
隅の席で極上の酒肴という店でもあるが
そのキャスティングは総厨のみ知る！であろうか？
・・・・以下、神楽坂芝蘭／2007 11
☆ 凄烈に食欲を刺激する旨味と新鮮な香辛料
四川成都料理、その極みが東京にもある
銀座の店がビル建て替えで神楽坂に移転営業開始
四川飯店系列でも妙手名手と称えられる下風氏、渡辺氏
この両総厨の元気な顔も拝見したく
初日に伺いその妙味の一端をいただいた
客席は昼前に既に一杯で多少驚く
内は４０坪程度で、壁や天井は真白
こじんまりとした四川は成都の町場食堂イメージ
此方の四川料理の特徴は花椒をはじめとして
香辛料の全てが本場のもの
機会があるたびに本土から自ら持参しいるらしく
その香りや旨味の妙は四川料理屋の中でも際立つ
その香辛料を惜しまず使い
総厨自ら手作りで漬け込んだ豆板醤は
市販のものとは全くの別物
旨味の根が違う
ご存知だろうか？
四川料理は川菜、北京料理は京菜
上海料理は滬菜、広東料理は粤菜
このように本国では呼称する
四川料理といっても本場は四川省成都の料理のことで
重慶の料理とは一線を引く方も多い
私は滬菜、粤菜には詳しいが川菜には疎い
しかし頂いていて痛烈に感じるのは
その直接的な風味と単純な旨味
しかし粤菜のような風味や旨味の融合ではなく
味雷（正字＝草冠）に直接届くような
単純な旨味感覚とでも評するべきか
表向きの馳走、乾貨ばかりが並んだ料理の中に
四川料理の真の心の味はない
料理は人間がつくる
その料理が流通し賞味されるのが勢いのある風俗であり
さらにそれが洗練された形が文化であると
強弁したのか、かの勝見洋一である
地の味わいを残しながらも爽やかな味覚が求められる東京
その特有の洗練さのなかでも一段と輝く川菜の妙
やはり中国は広い、想起するのはその一言であった
坦々麺、何ゆえ坦々麺か
担はかつぐ、肩にかつぐという意
日本では担任の先生という使われ方
旧字は「擔」である
起源は今で言う「出張ファストフード」
売り子が天秤棒で片方の籠に茹でた麺
もう片方の籠には醤（麺の上にかける味噌）と皿をのせ運搬
昼時に工事現場や工場などに出向き売りさばいてた
重いうえにこぼれるてしまう汁までは運べない
ジャージャー麺スタイルはそういう歴史
ジャージャー麺とミートソーススパゲッティの起源は坦々麺
しかしミートソースは伊太利亜ではあのスタイルではない