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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
神戸ポートピアホテルの名店「アラン・シャペル」が閉店した跡に入るホテル・グランメゾンです。
「トランテアン」とはフランス語で「31」を意味し、神戸ポートピアホテルの「31」周年に当たる2012年、同ホテルの「31」階にオープンしたことから命名されたとのこと。
フランス・リヨンの二つ星レストラン「ラ メール ブラジィエ」との世界初の提携店でもあります。
ラ メール ブラジィエの栄光の歴史を彩るシェフやお料理の写真が掲額された、やや動線の長いエントランスを進むと、メートルドテルがお出迎え。
左手には、西は須磨から東は宝塚まで、56㎞にもわたる六甲連山の山並みを背景に眩く煌く市街地のパノラマビューを眺めることができるウェイティングスペースが設けられています。
ウェイティングスペースをさらに進めば、左手には先ほどのパノラマビューをより贅沢に眺めることができる個室が、右手には神戸マリンエアを奥にしたオーシャンビューを眺めることができるメインダイニングがあり、ともに瀟洒で素晴らしい空間です。
木の温もりを感じさせられた重厚なアランシャペルの店内とは異なり、ホワイトを基調にした店内は現代的でスタイリッシュ。
ラベンダーやシルバーグレイ、鈍色のような寒色の中に所々にボルドーが配された特徴的な床のタイルも、どこか都会的な雰囲気を演出しています。
今回は2015年冬のディナータイムに頂いた、ラ メール ブラジィエのオーナーシェフのスペシャリテ「メニュー デギュスタシオン」（￥16,200）をご紹介したいと思います。
クリスピーなものとサラダ仕立てのもの、2皿のアミューズブーシュからスタートし、
・前菜1皿目…甲殻類のジュレにのせたマグロのマリネとウニ、カラスミ、彩り野菜
・前菜2皿目…ウフ・アラ・コックとトリュフのピューレ、茸のクリーム カプチーノ仕立て
・パン…カンパーニュ
・バター…海藻入りと有塩の2種類
・魚料理…旬魚のヴァプールとアンドゥイユ、ポロ葱のフォンデュ、そば粉のガレット キャビア添え
・肉料理…山ウズラのグリエ ジャワペッパーの香るジュ、腿肉のコンフィと柔らかい根セロリ
・チーズ盛り合わせ
・アヴァンデセール…特製マドレーヌ
・デセール…レグリスとカシス、チョコレートのパルフェ
・紅茶
と続きました。
前菜、定番的なウフ・アラ・コックとセップ茸のカプチーノはともにトーストをディップしして頂きます。
それぞれにピューレ、エマンセ、アッシェと異なる調理を施されたトリュフが用いられ、飽きることなくトリュフの薫り高さを堪能できる一皿に仕上げられています。
肉料理、山ウズラのグリエは胸肉と腿肉に内臓のパテが添えられます。
確かに濃厚なジュが良く馴染む淡白な胸肉も美味ですが、ジビエのより野生的な味わいが堪能できる腿肉の方が好みでした。
フルコースのため、前半の軽やかな立ち上がりにもかかわらず、チーズ盛り合わせの頃には満腹に近い状態になりましたが、全体的にバターや生クリームは控え目、素材本来の持ち味を活かし、ジュを効果的に用いたメニュー構成はモダンクラシックという言葉がぴったりと当てはまるお料理だと思いました。
サービスについては、さすがホテル・グランメゾンと思わせる、実に丁寧かつスマートな接客。
付かず離れずの心地良い間合いで、給仕等のタイミングもしっかりこちらに合わせて下さいました。
料理、サービス、ハコ…いずれも神戸では高いレベルに位置し、いかにもミシュランガイドが好みそうなグランメゾンだと思いますが、2015年秋に発売された『兵庫2016特別版』まで一度も掲載はなし。
シェフが交代されたことも影響したのでしょうか、引き続き今後に注目したいと思います。