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しめさば
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金目鯛
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こはだ
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大間のまぐろ中トロ
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鰆
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
再訪。
それにしてもよく通った。
途中、もうやめようかと思った時期もあったけれど、
都寿司の寿司は都寿司でしか頂けないからやめられず。
価格に関してはいろいろ思うところはあるんだけれども、
いや、味についても、訪れる季節によっても波があったりするんだけれども、
また、その日のコースの中でも波があったりするんだけれども、
やっぱり、都寿司の寿司は都寿司でしか頂けないから、
新しいお店に移転されてもきっと通い続けると思う。
■2015年2月-----
再訪。
ん～。冬になり、ネタの肉厚度が更に増し、脂の乗りも更に増し、バランスが崩れているような。
正直、迷走状態に陥っているように思います。
ただ、割合で言うと２～3割で凄いバランスのが出てくる。
この日は、特に、しめ鯖、金目鯛。この２品はとても素晴らしかった。
今回は寿司オンリーのお任せでお願いして、追加2貫含めトータル約16貫で約15,000円(税込で)。
ネタの重たさも手伝ってかなりお腹いっぱいになれるが、
以前のような10貫前後のボリュームも価格もライトな握りのお任せコースが恋しい。
■2014年10月-----
再訪。前回の印象をなんとなく裏付ける形に。
ネタの肉厚度が増し、全体的な重たさも増している。
シャリが小さくなり、バランス的には数年前とちょっと変わってしまった感。
まぁその分、ちょっと前まで見られたシャリのデシャバリ感はなくなりそれは改善されたのだが、
数年前の絶頂だった頃のバランス感が懐かしく思える。
(写真を見るとその変遷をお分かりいただけるかと思う。真ん中あたりの赤い皿の握りはシャリが大きい。)
この日は、鰆(さわら)、金目鯛、こはだが良かった。
また今回久々につまみと握りのお任せ(15,000円＋税)にしたのだが、
この価格帯だとお得感はあまりなくなるし、つまみは正直平凡なので、
やっぱ次回は握りだけでいいかな・・・。
■2014年6月-----
再訪。ネタの熟成感が増している。
ただその分、もともと肉厚なネタが重たくなりかけているような気もする。
シャリとのバランスが崩れかけているようにも思う。
ただ、この日の、唐津産むらさき海胆の握りは、新境地という感じでかなり良かった。
海胆をふわっと盛って空気を含ませ、口に運んだときにそれによってふわっとした味わいが広がる。
また、この日は、境港産あじの握りも大変良かった。
■2013年3月-----
幸運にも２週続けての訪問。
やはり、冬が一番美味しいかなと思う。
都寿司のシャリに合うのは、脂の乗った冬の魚。
夏に感じたことを確認できた気がする。
最近シャリに対して酢が強い（酢に対してシャリが弱い）なぁと思っていたのだが、
２週目は若干酢が弱めになっていてシャリとネタとの相性がピタッとはまっていた。
それと、最近、都寿司の寿司の味は、舌の上に寿司をどういう方向に乗っけて味わうかによって
味が大きく変わってくることに気付き始めた。僕個人の嗜好では、舌の上に真っ直ぐ乗っけて、
舌の上で転がすようにしてシャリとネタを混ぜ込みながら頂くと丁度良いバランスで美味しい。
この日は、サヨリが素晴らしく美味しかった。
■2013年8月-----
何度も通って、大体の傾向が分かりかけてきたかな、と思う。
都寿司は、冬が最も美味しい季節なのではないかと思う。
魚への脂の乗り方と、シャリのしっかり感とが良くマッチする。
最近、シャリの温度というか、ネタの温度というか、
どうもバランス感が崩れてきているように思う。
それと、訪問日によって美味しいときとそうでないときとのバラツキがあるような・・・。
■2013年3月-----
金目の熟成度がものすごくいい状態だった。
しめ鯖の状態もすごくいい。
■2013年1月-----
鰤（ぶり）の漬けが更に美味しさを増していた。
この日は、全体的にネタのカットが少し分厚めで魚の美味しさがしっかり。
■2012年10月-----
この日は、特に、鰤（ぶり）の漬け、壱岐産の赤雲丹が秀逸だった。
だいぶ予約が取りにくくなってきていますね。
当日のキャンセルも結構あるみたですし、一人なら席が空いていることもあるようなので、
ときどき電話をかけてみようかな。
■2012年9月-----
この日は初めて酒肴を頂いた。
さすがに美味しい。
■2012年6月-----
雲丹が素晴らしい！
■2012年6月-----
この日秀逸だったのは、新子、鯵、雲丹。
相変わらず素晴らしいと思う。
■2012年2月-----
鮨とは一体何なのか、鮨の美味しさとは何なのか、を改めて考えたくなるお店。
その鮨の美味しさは、他店と次元が異なっているのではないかとさえ思いたくなる。
シャリの粒は大きめ、ネタは厚め。
俵状にふんわりと握られたしゃりに、これを包み込むようにネタが乗る。
言葉で表現すると、たったそれだけになってしまうが、そこに都寿司ワールドが展開される。
その素晴らしさを、ポイントを絞って評するなら、次の２点ではないかと思う。
（１）しゃりやネタの温度状態が大変素晴らしい。
シャリは人肌と言うが、私の少ない鮨経験で恐縮だが、この温度がピタッとはまっている。
そして、ネタの温度までも、ピタッとはまっている。ネタは厚めなのに、中までしっかりいい温度。
だから、咀嚼しても、とても心地よい。そして、そのネタの味わいが広がっていく。
（２）ネタがシャリを心地よく包含している。
僕個人的には、鮨をどっち向きに頂くのが美味しいのかを試行錯誤している。
ネタを下にするか、上にするか、はたまた横にするかによって、味わいが全然異なってくる。
しかし、こちらのお店の鮨は、ネタがシャリを綺麗に包含しているので、どういう向きに頂いても、
ほぼ理想と思えるバランスで口の中で解けて、シャリとネタの味わいが交じり合っていく。
つまりは、口の中に放り込まれる時点で、シャリとネタが一体化しており、
ご主人のひとつひとつの鮨に対する狙いをそのまま食べ手が受け取ることができ、
そのまま味わうことができる。
シャリとネタは一体化しているが、シャリにはシャリの存在感、ネタにはネタの存在感があり、
その交わりにも存在感がある。
しかしながら、自分の意識を、その交わりに移したとき、シャリとネタの存在感は消え、
シャリとネタに意識を移したときに、その交わりの存在感が消えていく。そんな感じ。
この意識のゆれに伴って味わいが変わっていく様がなんとも心地いい。
それも、全て、シャリとネタの一体感があってこそのことであり、
もしこの一体感に一寸の隙があれば安心して意識を移すことができないと思われるのだ。