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イノシシ
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フォアグラのアナゴ巻き
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ブリ
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白子
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ふきのとう
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イノシシの肉まん
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鹿のレバー
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鹿のレバーと茄子
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鹿のレバー！
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もくず蟹、もずく
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リンゴ
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
再訪。
■2013年11月-----
再訪。
今回は久々にかなり良かった。ハズレがなかった。
特に山鳩のローストが良かった。
ただ、山鳩に添えられた長人参のローストは香りが強く山鳩の味わいを邪魔する。
ビジュアル的にはいいんだけれども、どうも必然性を感じない。
かなり良かったこの日でも、料理にそんな危うさを感じた。
だんだんとフロリの方向性と僕のツボとの間に距離を感じ始めている。
今のフロリの方向性は、色彩や立体感といったビジュアルやいろいろな仕掛けで楽しませるもの。
また、個々のパーツパーツは素材もいいし火入れもいいし美味しい。
ただ、全体的なまとまり感はなくなってしまったなぁという印象。
ソースなどの組み合わせの妙、というものが殆ど感じられなくなってしまった。
■2013年9月-----
再訪。
豚にビーツのソース。全然合わない。フロリでは時々こういうことがある。
ビーツのソースはビビッドな赤で確かに色彩的には映える。
しかし、ビジュアルが重視されて、味は二の次になってはいないか。
■2013年7月-----
再訪。
この日も、チャレンジングな料理が提供される。鼈（すっぽん）。
僕自身この料理をどう解釈していいか分からないのだけれども、
確かに挑戦されていらっしゃるのは分かるが、まだまだ延びシロがあるのではないかと思う。
鮎の料理にしても同じ。昨年は同じような料理を小さめの鮎で頂いたが、今回はかなり大きめのもので。
これも挑戦。しかし、これは逆に延びシロが広がってしまった感。
■2012年12月-----
再訪。
この日の主役は、イノシシ肉。
脂身や赤身の熟成感がとても素晴らしく、悶絶。
また、これまでこちらのお店でなかなかいい魚介料理に出会うことがなかったのだが、
この日は、ブリ料理も、白子料理も、アナゴ料理も非常に良かった。
■2012年10月-----
再訪。
この日はなんと鹿のレバーの入荷があり、
同行者４名全員、何の迷いも無く鹿のレバーを注文。（笑）
いや～、凄かった。文句無く★5.0
これがランチ4,200円なんてありえない。
■2012年8月-----
「普段使いのお店を訪れる」ことをモットーとしていた僕が
まさかお洒落なフランス料理店に通い詰めることになろうとは思ってもみなかった。
見た目の格好良さやお洒落とか、権威や人の評判とか、デートに使えるお店のストックとか、
そんなのに全然興味がない僕にとって、これまでフランス料理店に行く必然性がひとつも無かったのだ。
ところが、とある切っ掛けでこちらのお店を訪れる機会があって、料理を頂いてみて、
それ以来すっかりファンになってしまい、もう何度も訪問させて頂いている。
それは、僕の価値観と非常に合致していると感じることがたくさんあるからであり、
訪れるたびにいつも感銘を受けるからだ。
その価値観の合致は僕の勝手な想像なのかもしれないけれども、
訪れるたびに確信に変わりつつある。
僕の、こちらのお店の料理に対する印象はこうだ：
・食材の持ち味を大切にしていらっしゃる。
火入れ、食材の組み合わせ、ソースとの組み合わせ、などなどに様々な工夫を凝らし、
その素材の持ち味を色々な角度から引き出していく。
「ああ、この食材はこんな顔も見せるのか」といつも驚かされる。
・このような工夫は、こちらのお店の得意素材であるフォアグラやチョコレートだけでなく、
肉、魚介、そして野菜に至るまで、様々な食材に対して繰り広げられる。
・また、お皿の上に乗った食材は、単に飾りに留まっているものはなく、
どれも料理全体の味を高める上で、何かの意味や効果をもたらすものになっている。
この３つのポイントが、僕にとってはツボそのものであり、
一つの皿の上に乗った全ての食材は、その火入れと、その組み合わせと、そのポーションに、
何らかの必然性を感じるものであり、
皿に乗った全ての食材が共同作業で「料理」を作り上げているところがツボそのものなのだ。
そこにはシェフの全ての食材とその持ち味を大切にするという思いが込められているような気がする。
ただ、料理は必ずしも完全完成形ではなく、即興セッション的な危うさが感じられるところもあると思う。
しかしながら、シェフは季節によって変わっていく食材や食材の持ち味に合わせて調理を様々に変えていらっしゃり、
単に「大切にする」という表現では言い尽くせない思いで、常に新しい挑戦をされていらっしゃるのだと思う。
一方のサービス陣は、こうした料理を全く押し付けることなくユーモアを交えながらお客に提供される。
このホスピタリティには温かさを感じる。
料理とお店とお客を愛していらっしゃるんだろうな、と思う。