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鮎の炭火焼き
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京都美山産
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滋賀県安曇川産
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蓼酢
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高知県徳谷産トマト
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賀茂茄子の丸焼き
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賀茂茄子中身
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広島産じゅんさい赤出汁
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
今回ご紹介するのは,食べログでは超有名なアメリカ大使館の裏手に凛とした空気が漂う日本料理のお店「松川」（食べログ投稿時４・８６）！
新橋の「京味」（食べログ投稿時４・８３）と共に人気を二分する東京の和食のお店です。
簡単に「松川」の店主・松川忠由氏の経歴を説明すると、滋賀の名店「招福樓」→「志門」→広尾のミシュラン★★「青草窠」では料理長を努めた経歴の持ち主で2011年年3月にアメリカ大使館裏手に隠れ家的にオープンした和食処のお店。
このお店の特徴は、メディアの取材には一切応じず完全紹介制＆完全予約制で最高級な食材を用いて日本料理を食べさせてくる土壁の香りが心地よい大人の空間のお店です。
訪問した時は６月下旬で、旬の食材を使った「松川」の初夏の懐石料理を十分に堪能させて頂きました。
先ずはお洒落な檜の木箱に入った先付から・・・
★黒鮑・淡路島の赤雲丹・すっぽんの煮凝りがけ・・・まずこれだけ立派な黒鮑と赤雲丹のハーモニーにスッポンの煮凝りと贅を尽くした先付、鮑や雲丹もさることながらスッポンの煮凝りが素晴らしい。
★鱚の飯蒸し・・・鱚（きす）の上にはカザフスタン産のベルーガキャビアが添えられおり、キャビアの塩気と鱚の白身が上手く調和する美味しさ。
★お造り
淡路島産眞子鰈・唐津産赤雲丹・・・眞子鰈は弾力があり鰈の旨味が凝縮され赤雲丹は申し分のない美味しさでこの赤雲丹は三重県紀北町で食べた海女さんが朝獲りした赤雲丹に近い美味しさ。
★椀物
宍道湖の天然鰻と冬瓜・・・キリッとした出汁と天然鰻の美味しさに冬瓜の優しさ、全てに物語があると思われる一杯
★北海道噴火湾産の毛蟹と生きくらげ・・・旨味のある毛ガニの身とミソ、土佐酢ジュレの酸味がが上手く毛ガニを包み込む
★鱧の焼き霜造り、半生ばちこ、揚げトウモロコシ・・・鱧の淡白さとばちこの塩分が口の中で上手く調和する相性の良さ
★鮎の塩焼き味比べ・・・京都美山産の鮎と滋賀県安曇川産の味比べ、美山産の方が香り豊かな香ばしさで安曇川産は肝の苦みを楽しむ大人の嗜好
★焼きすっぽん、新牛蒡揚げ・・・すっぽんは濃厚な脂乗りが口の中でスッポンの脂がじゅわりと溢れ出てきてスッポンですと主張している一品。
★高知県産徳谷トマト・・・徳谷トマトは高知県徳谷地区のトマトで大変糖度が高いトマトで、高糖度のトマトはもはやフルーツの域に達していると言っても過言ではないトマトを酢のジュレと一緒に食べる箸休め。
★賀茂茄子の姿焼き・・・姿焼きの表面は黒々としているが中身はみずみずしく正にThis is the 賀茂茄子、素材の良さをそのままに！
★淡路産鱧のしゃぶしゃぶ・・・淡路島産の鱧を出汁で１０秒程しゃぶしゃぶ、出汁でそのままとポン酢で食べる二通りの食べ方をアドバイス。個人的には出汁と一緒に食べる方が好み。
★自家製蕎麦とオクラ・・・蕎麦は自家製の外一蕎麦で氷の器で提供され後からそば汁を掛ける演出、ただ蕎麦に関しては少し期待外れ
★お食事・・・鳥取産ヒノヒカリのご飯に生カラスミ・イクラ醤油漬け・海苔・ちりめん山椒を好みで掛けていただく。
私は生カラスミにイクラと海苔をトッピングしていただく。
味噌汁は広島産ジュンサイの赤出汁と香の物。
★水羊羹＆お薄・・・甘さ控えめで大変上品なお味の水羊羹、どことなく越後屋若狭屋の水羊羹に似ていると感じるは私だけ・・・？
★デザート・・・小夏のゼリー＆サクランボ（佐藤錦）
以上は「松川」の初夏の懐石料理の内容。
総評として、流石に全国の優れぬかれた旬の食材を一堂に集め、一品一品に繊細な料理で提供する松川氏の姿勢は素晴らしくボリュームも含めて大変満足する内容。
又、帰り際にお土産まで用意する心配りは良い意味で憎い演出である。
強いて難点を申せばお蕎麦の出来が未だ一流の域に達していると言えない辺りではないだろうか。
「御馳走さまでした」