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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
とあるご縁で伺った 「鮨ぶんぺい」。
噂には聞いていたけれど、実際に体験すると「若き天才」という言葉が誇張でも何でもないと分かる一軒。アテと鮨が流れるように続くコースで、冒頭から心を掴まれました。
スタートは 朝締めの真鯛。常温で提供され、鮮度の冴えと熟成のような濃密さが絶妙に同居している。噛むほどに旨みが増していくやつで、早くも “ここ、只者じゃない” と確信。
続いてのお椀は、島原そうめん×キンキ。ほっと温まるお出汁にキンキの甘い脂が溶け込み、そうめんの程よいコシがアクセント。上品なんだけど、旨みがぎゅっと詰まっていて思わず笑う。
さらに印象的だったのが 肉厚ホッキ貝の一品。
酢飯に胡椒というまさかの仕上げで、香りのパンチがホッキの甘さをグッと引き上げる。口の中で完成するタイプの料理。
そこからは、足赤海老の塩辛とコウイカを和えた一品や、子持ち鮎を丁寧に火入れしてほぐしたアテが続くのですが…
なんと言っても フカヒレの天麩羅。
じんわり旨みを含ませるようにお出汁で炊かれたフカヒレを、薄衣でふわっとサクッと。食感も香りも初体験レベルで、これは完全に天才技。
お椀（かぶ＋サワラ）を挟んで、いよいよ鮨へ。
シャリの温度、握りの空気感、ネタとの一体感、全部がしっかり計算されているのに押し付けがましくない。
竜飛岬のマグロの旨みも驚く。
どれも丁寧な仕事です。
そして特筆すべきは 大将の空気感。肩肘張らず、でもプロの緊張感もちゃんとある。居心地が良すぎて、気づけば時間を忘れてしまう。
技術・創造性・空気、すべてが揃った鮨屋。
「また行きたい」と本気で思わせてくれる一軒でした。