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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ミシュラン3☆の日本料理店。
同じ神楽坂の3☆石かわ で修行を積んだ小泉功二氏が店主を務める。明るく気さくで誠実な方だ。完璧な基礎の上に超斬新なアイデアを展開する様子はアーチストに近い。
ベースとなるのはとても繊細で優しい出汁だ。味わう程に自らの味覚が敏感に磨かれるような感じがした。
［先付］鮑の肝和え
鮑としいたけ、きゅうり、塩昆布、木の芽が鮑の肝のジュレでコーティングされている。
［揚物］揚げた稚鮎をトリュフソースに付けて
揚げたての熱々で出てくる。香ばしい衣とほろ苦い肝、それにトリュフの芳醇な香りを合わせた未知なる味覚の刺激。
［お凌ぎ］飯蒸しにからすみを乗せて
半熟のウズラの卵を崩して乗せて食べる。モチモチとした飯にコクのあるからすみの粉。独特のコクを感じながらも舌先に爽やかさを感じる。
［お椀］車海老のしんじょう
美しいえんじ色。舌先に身の柔らかさと刻まれた殻の刺激を同時に感じる。
［お造り一］鯛の鯛白子和え
こした白子をジュレにしてある。美しい光沢と透明感を併せ持つ。鯛は上品に〆られた様子だ。刻まれたミョウガとともにサジで食べる。和の概念を越えたように感じさせるが、確かな和の味。
［お造り二］蛍烏賊炙り
コロッと可愛らしい。焼くことにより肝が弾ける瞬間の状態。プチュッと弾ける芳醇な肝の味とカリッと香ばしい脚、微かに感じる身のしなやかさ。
［焼物］のど黒の西京焼き
上品な白味噌の出汁に力強い緑色のこしあぶら。焼き目のついたのど黒には透き通る若い緑の蕗が添えられている。のど黒は適度に脂がのり、これだけで最強の美味さ。更に優しい出汁味の蕗や汁との対比が楽しめるところが大将一流の仕掛けか。
［冷し物］桜鱒の燻らし キャビアとこごみを添えて
鮮やかな桜鱒の発色。曇りのない緑のこごみとのコントラストが資格を刺激する。鱒の燻製感はとても繊細。故にキャビアの塩加減を絶妙に抑えて整えているようだった。
［煮物］蛤、うに、小松菜、筍
素朴でどことなく可愛らしい鳥の器。上品な春かぶらのすり流しの汁で頂く。優しくてとても繊細な味わいだ。歯応えを残した筍、大振りながらしっかりとした味わいのウニ。
［お食事］桜海老と空豆の炊込み御飯
目の前で大将が土鍋の蓋をオープン。視覚に飛び込むのは鮮やかな桜エビのオレンジ色と艶やかなそら豆の緑。追いかけるようにして嗅覚に訴えくるのは桜エビの香ばしい香りだ。多覚的な脳への刺激が食欲を復活させる。
［甘味］八朔のアイスクリーム、胡モモの寒天
爽やかで奥の深い味わいのアイスクリーム。サクサクの焼き最中のトッピングの香ばしさ歯ざわりが楽しい。