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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ピエモンテ州で料理の腕を磨いた堀川シェフの妥協なき郷土料理。それを味わいたいと思いつつ、なかなか予約が取れなかったが、念願叶って伺うことができた。
質感のある瀟洒なデザインの空間は、本物のイタリアの家庭みたいだ。レンガのドーム天井の下に案内された。レンガの素朴な質感と照明の柔らかさに落ち着く。
ソムリエがアレルギーの有無を確認し、一通りの料理の進行を説明。飲み物は料理とのマリアージュを提案したいので任せてもらえればとのことなので、お願いした。
彼が進行のタイミングを計り、料理の説明をしてくれる。その話は素材の産地はもちろん気候や土壌など詳細だ。そして、それぞれの料理のコンセプトを語り上げ、いつしかシェフ堀川亮氏の生き様そのものが浮かび上がってくるような感覚に陥る。
部屋のセンターにあるテーブルはサービステーブルに使われているようだ。複数のワインクーラーの中や外に多くのボトルが並ぶ。お客の趣向を感じとりながらその場でマリアージュを企てている様子だ。
さて、その料理は「百聞は一口にしかず」と言わんとするような気迫がこもったものだった。
力強さと繊細さ、素朴さと演出と。多次元な刺激で魅惑してくれる。
語り部と料理人の共演に酔う甘美なひと時だった。
◆白桃とサマートリュフの冷製スープ
白桃の甘み、ホエイの爽やかな酸味とトリュフのコクが繊細なスープ。
◆大槌町産の帆立のサラダ
茄子のピューレで食す帆立は綺麗な焼き目。食べられる花の彩りが綺麗だ。
◆天草の雲丹の冷製パスタ
雲丹はしっかりとした塊感を残しながらもトロッとした食感と濃厚な味わい。コクの深い枝豆が色合いと味わいのアクセントに。
◆岩魚のソテー
80cm級の岩魚。ハーブの効いた衣でサックリと。可愛らしい付け合せの野草と共にクルミのソースで頂く。小さくて黄色の花と野草にイタリアの緑の丘の風景を思う。
◆ポルチーニのリゾット
フレッシュなポルチーニはシャキッした食感と豊かな香り。花びらのオレンジ色が鮮やかでパワーを感じる。
◆鮎の温パスタ
周囲に撒かれているのは骨や頭をカリカリに炒めたもの。ほろ苦く塩が効いていてコクのあるアクセントに。マゼンダ色の花びらとの組み合わせがシックだ。
◆羊の藁包みロースト【名物】
ピエモンテ州に住み着いたヴァルド派に伝わる伝統的な農家料理だとか。藁に包まれて出てくる。目の前で開いて中の様子を覗かせる演出。微かに感じる藁の香りに期待が募る。
羊の特徴を柔らかな藁で引き出したような優しい味わいだ。味付けは岩塩のみ。脂身は臭みなく甘みに変換され、舌の上で少しだけトロみを感じる食感が楽しい。
小さな鉄鍋の灰の中で熱を通したジャガイモが付け合せ。
不思議なアウトドア感。
◆チーズ三種
羊、牛、もろ味噌漬チーズの盛り合わせ。
◆ドルチェ二種