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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
帝国ホテルのスペシャリティレストランとして2021年10月にオープンしたお店。
神楽坂の超有名店「中むら」グループのプロデュースによるお店。同グループの神楽坂「虎白」からの日比谷「寅黒」か。調理責任者は虎白の鷹見将志氏だ。そして意外にも帝国ホテルの歴史で初の直営日本料理店なのだとか。
内装は斬新さと安定感を兼ね備えた和のデザインで賞賛を集める建築家の広谷純弘氏だ。
最上質な和の空間で頂く珠玉の料理。それを支える超一流のサービスは独特の品格の中でお客を和ませてくれる。それが和製ホテルのありがたいところ。
当日は壁に金箔を貼ってその上に織物を纏った個室。料理の合間にその内装の芸の妙を楽しんで、至福のひと時を過ごさせて頂いた。
さて、
◆フカヒレとホワイトアスパラ塩焼き
パリパリとしたアスパラの食感は水々しく新鮮な甘みが素直に沁みてくる。フカヒレのソースは思いのほか塩味が効いて刺激的な印象。
◆稚鮎の蒸物の春巻き
敢えて姿を見せない粋な世界。幾何学的に思える細い円柱の中から飛び出す若々しくも芳醇な味の広がりに驚き。パリッとした歯応えの後から追いかける軽快な苦味の上品さに唸る。
◆帆立のしんじょう
とにかく上品な出汁。五臓六腑に沁みるな。しんじょうは貝柱の旨味に小さな柚子の皮のアクセントが効く。椀入力浮くミニオクラの緑がとても綺麗だ。
◆お造り
・石川のどぐろ炭おろしと北ムラサキウニ
脂の美味さと炭の香ばしさが超絶妙にマッチ。
ミョウバンを一切使わないウニの本物の味を知る。
◆お造り
・伊勢海老のキャビア乗せ
さすが帝国ホテル。キャビアの量が半端ない。伊勢海老の甘味とか豊かな噛み心地と、プチプチ弾けるキャビアの食感が神経を刺激。
◆金目松笠焼肉 とうもろこし
鮮やかな金目のウロコの焦げが素晴らしく綺麗なコントラスト。プリプリでカリカリ。絶好のタイミングでその美味さを楽しめた。
とうもろこしは甘味深し。
◆毛蟹蒸物 メロンのスープ
なんと言う見事な演出。蓮の葉からこぼれ落ちるじゅんさいの健気さ。
それをめくって毛蟹を頂く。解された蟹の身は舌先に繊細でしなやかな刺激。トロントしたじゅんさいと対比的だった。
◆椀
旨味が凝縮されたスッポンは炭火焼きしたもの。スッポンの出汁を吸った冬瓜がたまらなく美味。
キクラゲは今までに食べたことのない食感。パリパリとシャキシャキを合わせた感覚が楽しい。
◆ご飯
・牛蒡と牛肉の炊き込みご飯
なんと牛にくは生。炊き立ての白米に混ぜなぎら旨味を出すのだとか。しゃぶしゃぶくらいの熱の通し具合になる。品のある牛蒡の土の香りがレアな牛肉とマッチすると言う妙。
素晴らしい発想だ。
◆甘味一
他い深い甘味のラム酒のアイス。サクッとしたキノコのガレットと共に。
◆甘味ニ
・椰子の白わらび餅
わらび粉とココナッツミルクを練り上げた冷や菓子。
神楽坂駅の石かわ、虎白の店主が創り出した甘味だとか。
ココナッツミルクのコクと香りがわらびと合わさることで優しい和の美味に。