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京都でミシュランの星を持つ、京都らしい古い呉服店の建物をリノベーションした、素晴らしいインテリアのフレンチレストラン。
今回はイベリコ豚のロースト。旨味の凝縮が全く豚とは思えない、イベリコらしいイベリコ豚に絶妙な火入れ。敷かれたたっぷりの野菜をソース代わりに出来てしまう。大原の野菜は62種類が使われている。1つ1つ、野菜に合わせた調理も、これだけあるとその手間を想像しただけで気が遠くなる。
アミューズはヘーゼルナッツから始まる。続いて大白柿とインドの菓子。シャンパーニュを一気飲みしてしまう。ポタージュは上海蟹とフカヒレ。中華料理にも精通したシェフの、中華食材の使い方が上手い。シャンピニオンとの相性が抜群で、合わせるジュラとバルサミコの香りが、えも言えぬ極上の世界。
フォアグラは60℃の低温調理。生姜や生八橋を合わせ、シェフオリジナルを作り出し、ワインはソーテルヌではなく、ジュランソンを想定する。シェフとソムリエの織りなす世界は、驚くべき新しい美味しさの連続。
オマール海老のムースはラビオリにされ、上にはアメリケーヌソースの泡。南仏のロゼに寄り添う。ポアソンはメダイのポアレ。ここでも低温で長時間の火入れが、完璧な白身魚の仕上り。ローヌの白を合わせるところも憎い。
京都らしく、徹底的にこだわった町家インテリアは、中庭や装飾も完璧な京都伝統の雰囲気。旬の食材と、ジャンルを超えた組合せが他にないオリジナル。どの食材も完璧な火入れで技術の高さはミシュランが認める通り。ワインとの相性も丁寧に考えられていて、全てにバランスの取れたレストランとなっているのではないだろうか。