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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
旬の食材を丁寧な仕事で最高に仕上げ、誰もが満足するバランスの取れた出汁の使い方にも感心するミシュラン星付き京料理の店。カウンターで気さくな大将の仕事を見ながら、心から寛げる店となっている。
今回は解禁されたばかり、丹後の香箱蟹。味噌、外子、内子の目眩く食感と味わいのアンサンブルもさることながら、真っ白な身、そのものが大きくてたっぷり詰め直され、その旨味と味わいの濃さが雄の間人蟹を彷彿とさせる。海水程度の薄い塩味で、軽く湯掻いただけとは思えない。これだから地の香箱蟹はやめられない。
お任せコースは先付、鰻と堀川牛蒡の茶碗蒸しから始まる。牛蒡と鰻炭焼きが織りなす香りのハーモニー。向付の北海道産鰤は、絞めたばかりの食感はもとより、旨味の塊が熟成とは違う新しさ。和歌山産のハリイカも、軽快な甘さが地の美味しさで嬉しい。
香箱蟹に続いて椀物は赤カマスの炭火焼きを、自家製の厚揚げとともに、蕪のみぞれ椀としている。凌ぎは淡路産の鯖押し寿司。炭火を直に当てて香りを立ち上げる。八寸も多彩。仙鳳趾の牡蠣は巻き揚げ、ムカゴは利休揚げにしている。秋茄子は大原から。鶏そぼろの湯葉和え、菊菜と柿は大徳寺麩の白和え、いずれも京料理らしいバランスの取れた美味しさ。
肉料理は田村牛。差しの入り方が上品。蒸し焼き風にする炭火焼きの火入れ具合が、上品な差しに合っている。赤味噌のタレが何とも言えない美味しさ。酢の物は真鱈の白子、雲子。和歌山産のクエは聖護院大根と焚き合わせる。九条ネギが効いている。
土鍋ご飯が3種類。真っ白なご飯、銀杏、シャケとイクラの親子、どれも満腹でも食べたくなる。水物は大白柿の渋さを焼酎に漬けて取り除き、ブランデーと和三盆のジュレで仕上げる。最後まで楽しく美味しい。
丹波の花山椒しゃぶしゃぶで有名な、ミシュラン3つ星店で修行した大将の京料理は、旬にこだわる多彩でオリジナルなバリエーションが素晴らしい。選び抜かれた食材1つ1つに、愛を込めて調理しているのがヒシヒシと伝わってくる。人当たりの良い大将との会話も弾む、居心地満点の店となっている。