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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
威風堂々な店舗はありません。様々な蕎麦粉が出てくる内手の小槌はありません。あるのは蕎麦への情熱と技量です。
大阪市の雄、荒凡夫…最高でした。日曜日の開店五分前にタクシーで到着。既に数人の並び客がおりました。どうやら常連客のようです。
カウンターに座りました。お隣二名は常連客で、サクッと日本酒とアテを頼み、パッパッと飲んでリズム良く、女将さんに追加の日本酒を頼みます。実に小気味良いので、私も何だか釣られます。
●ハートランドビール 780円
●サーモンの塩辛 550円
この店をお勧めしてくれた、蕎麦友ゆってぃイチオシのメニュー。道産子はサーモンに厳しいぜと心に思いつつ一口。おお！サーモンのファッティな旨味に麹系の旨味が更に重なって洪水のよう。これは間違い無く旨い！
●播州一献 580円
●鞍掛豆のひたし豆 300円
旨味の余韻の中、日本酒に移行。鞍掛豆は綺麗に艶めき適度な歯応え。淡い出汁と豆のコクは上品なハーモニーを奏でる。
●そば三昧 1,800円
二八・十割・粗挽き十割 「山形県産来迎寺在来」
単一品種を順に三種類の打ち方で提供。
二八、キュッと締まり程良く冷たい。喉越しにウェイト、蕎麦の王道。種物他どんなスタイルにも柔軟にに対応する優等生。
十割、蕎麦喰いには真の王道。蕎麦切りの体を保ちつつ、打ち手の個性出やすく、蕎麦の実のチカラを体現出来る蕎麦。こちらも良く繋がっていて、来迎寺在来種の香り、味、更に強く逞しく。
粗挽き十割、圧巻。草の色、香り舞う。熟成味が強調されるのか、大地の深い甘みの後には香ばしいナッツ香。自らにどんどん主張してくる達者さを備え、そのまま食べても旨い蕎麦。私は粗挽きの十割を食べる為に日々蕎麦を追い求めていると実感。ここ最近では稀に見る「強さ」の粗挽き蕎麦。
つゆは綺麗な節出汁にムチリとした旨味の返しサラリ。奥行きがあり、そこにはほろ苦味も微かに。蕎麦と共鳴してお互いを高め合うタイプ。
オープンキッチンの中、燻銀のような輝きで颯爽と調理するご主人と、場を読んで縦横無尽に動く女将さんとの阿吽の呼吸も見応え。
大阪でまた感動の蕎麦に出会えた喜びと、嗚呼…この素晴らしき蕎麦体験はもう終わりを迎えるのだという寂しさを同時に感じながら、最後一本の蕎麦を丁寧に手繰り寄せた。