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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
鮎っ喰いにとっては憧れ中の憧れ。
旅の目的となるお店である。
しかし関東からはなかなかに遠い。
かつてコチラの出店の鮎正が新橋にあった折、
一度だけ訪問した事はあるのだが。
その時の鮮烈な印象に、
いつかは島根に！とずっと想っていた。
20年以上経って、ようやくの訪問。
28歳まで海の魚至上主義だったワタクシ。
いっぱしの鮎っ喰いになったのには、
海無し県出身のツレの影響が大きい。
鮎は塩焼きばっかりを山盛りにして
喰らうもんだとの教えを真に受け。
ヤナでひたすら鮎を食べているうちに、
突如として鮎の川ごとの味の違いの楽しさに
目醒めてしまったのだな。
これまで食べて来なかった分、
人生の収支を合わせるようにして
高知、秋田、岐阜、熊本、京都、滋賀。
食べに行ったり取り寄せたり。
どっぷりと鮎の魅力にハマっていた時分に
行ったのが鮎正。
高津川の鮎の濁りの無い軽やかさな美味しさが
深く記憶に残った。
さて、今回頂いたのは
◆鮎の南蛮がゆ
◆鮎と冬瓜のお椀
◆鮎の洗い
◆鮎塩焼き
◆山椒醤油がけ
◆にがうるか
◆うるかなす
◆酢の物
◆鮎春巻き うるか味噌
◆鮎ご飯
◆鮎の白味噌椀
◆青梅甘露煮
「○○ずくし」はあまり得意ではないが、
鮎となればハナシは別だ。
塩焼きが鮎の食べ方の最高峰、
塩焼きに尽きると信じている。
それでもなお鮎の持つ味わいの引き出しを、
もっともっと見せて欲しいと熱望してしまう。
南蛮がゆと揚げ鮎の組み合わせの妙に驚愕し、
塩焼きに歓喜の声を上げ、
炊き込みご飯にしみじみとし。
しかし今回心を捉えたのは
・うるかなす
・鮎春巻き うるか味噌
なのである。
にがうるかの凄さに完全にやられた。
活けで砂を排除しているのが大きいのだろう。
うるかでさえも澄んだ味わい。
厚みはあるものの雑味の少ない苦味。
苦味を美味しさに変換出来る味覚は大人の特権。
大人になって心底良かった。
極上な苦味に日本酒を合わせる幸せ。
身も心もほどけてゆくよ。
ここのうるかなすの味は、
一生覚えていられる自信がある。
苦味を基軸に油と甘さと旨みと塩味。
更にこの汁に白ご飯をぶっ込んで、
余す事なくぜーんぶ食べられるんだよ。
酒だけじゃなくご飯もだなんて。
幸せ過ぎるじゃないか。
20年分の想いが昇華された。
一生に一度とは言わず、
何度でも訪れたい珠玉の名店。