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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
神谷バーで食への準備を調えてから、平日の12時に直前の電話予約で出向く。先客さんは2人で、後客さんが5人。板場は、五代目の内田正さんと二番手さん。そのあたりは、美味しんぼの106巻で詳しく紹介されている。読んでから訪ねると、江戸前の粋を感じることができる。
まずは、石川の山廃純米 菊姫で喉を洗う。頼んだのは、お任せの弁天山。お通しは、マグロのしぐれ煮で生姜が効いている。
握りは、平目と鯛から。酢飯は硬めで、ホロホロの仕上がり。赤貝は香りが鼻に抜け、真かじきの昆布締めは旨味が重なり北寄はクセがない。小肌は仕込みの手間がかかっているだけに、締め加減がまさに絶妙。車海老は身が厚く甘味を感じ、鯵は軽く締めてある。穴子は、白く煮る（爽煮）ことが老舗ならではの流儀。煮いかは食感がプリプリ。まぐろは、漬けにして旨味と酸味を引き出している。玉子は甘めで海老の擦り身を合わせ、鉄火巻きと干瓢巻きは塩気がやや強めだった。