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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
茨城の山のほう、常陸太田という名の土地に「慈久庵」はある。
地図上ではぽつねんとした場所にあるその店は、まるで時間の外れにぽっかり空いた、蕎麦のためだけに用意された秘密基地のような佇まいだった。車庫にあるシトロエンが、
体が震えるくらいのコントラストを醸し出して気絶しそうになる。
門をくぐれば、やわらかい光が差す木造の建物。風が木々を撫で、どこか遠くで鳥が笑っている。とたんに鼻腔をくすぐる香ばしさ。まだ蕎麦は来ていない。だがこの店は、すでに「蕎麦前」で魂を抜きにかかってくる。
まずは自家製のこんにゃく。歯を入れた瞬間、
こんにゃくに対する概念が変わった・・
今まで悪かったね 実は主役を張れる役者だった・・
岩魚の一夜干しは、焚き火で干したような野生の匂いがして、骨まで愛せる一生の伴侶だ。山菜の醤油漬けは、土と光をぎゅっと詰め込んだような味がし、この味付けのために生まれてきたかのようで祝福したくなる。鮎のうるかは、ほろ苦さのなかに川の記憶があった。
そしていよいよ、主役の蕎麦。
ひと口、すすった。
頭の芯が、ぐらんと揺れた。
次の瞬間、視界が白くなり、ほんの少し気を失った。
気がついたら、蕎麦の皿を抱いていた。
主人は黙々と仕事をする。無駄口ひとつなく、魂を置くように蕎麦と向き合っている。
静かにかつ永遠に蕎麦との時間を厳かに楽しんでいるように見える。
その姿は、まるで山の中に棲む職人ではなく、蕎麦という現象をこの世に出現させる巫女のようだった。
慈久庵。
あれは、蕎麦屋の名を借りた、ある種の異世界装置だったのだ。
もうあの蕎麦に出会ってしまったら、他の蕎麦には戻れない。
そんな、危険で、美しい場所だった。