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金時人参に湯葉
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ほんもろこ
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鯛と雲子
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暖簾
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内観
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中庭
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表札
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町家
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寒茶
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青竹酒
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柊の蓋
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先付け
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蒸し鉢
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預け鉢
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柚子釜の蒸し鮨
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松の司
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冷酒一合
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椀の物
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粕汁
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向付け
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本鮪
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目前で焼いてくれる
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頭まで食べれるように
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焼き物
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ほんもろこと生姜酢
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揚げ物
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マナガツオのおかき揚げ
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盛り付け風景
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和え物
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九条葱、鰤、赤蕪
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止め鍋
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鯛と雲子の霙鍋
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お凌ぎ
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唐墨餅
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土鍋で炊いたご飯
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ご飯
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香の物
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赤出汁
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コシヒカリ
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水物
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デコポンのゼリー
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中庭灯篭
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カウンターの内側
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エントランス
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三玄院
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三玄院の門
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三寒四温、今朝は陽射しもあって心なしか暖か。暦の上ではもう立春。三玄院の方丈、昨雲庭に残る雪もあとわずか。春屋和尚の目を盗んで一気呵成に書き上げた等伯躍進の逸話もここでは語られず。
参拝を済ませた後は、念願のこちらでお昼を頂く。趣のある町家を綺麗にリノベーションされ、中は広々とした空間が展開されている。コートを預け、カウンター席に案内して頂く。
最初に、ほうじ茶と寒茶を頂く、寒茶は1、2月に頂くお茶で生姜が入って身体が温まる。今日は昼のおまかせコース(11000円)をお願いしていた。料理が本当に楽しみだ。
◆「盃」は、竹の器に入った和久傳特製丹後の青竹酒、竹の香りに包まれたキリっとした冷酒。まずは乾杯。
◆「先付け」は、柊を蓋に見立てたなまこ汁。野菜と鴨で出汁を取ったコンソメ風スープも、具のなまこもコリコリして、美味しい。旧暦の新年にあたり、なまこを鬼の金棒に見立てて、柊の棘で蓋をして鬼退治、厄を払う。
◆「預け鉢」は、柚子釜の蒸し鮨。大きな柚子の中身をくり抜いて、シャリの上に、蟹味噌などで味を調えた蟹身がたっぷりとのった豪快な逸品。蟹と柚子のコラボレーションが意外な味わいを演出する、今までに食べた事のない味。蓋の部分の柚子を絞ると果汁分が更に強く主張してくる、これは本当に面白い、見た目も味も今日一。
◆「椀の物」は、粕汁。金時人参が盛られその上に湯葉とねぎが添えられている。具は、丸大根、里芋、牛蒡、伊勢海老が入っている。酒粕が効いて甘めで濃い味付けだが意外とくどくない、野菜本来の味がしっかり閉じ込めらていて、それぞれの野菜が本当に美味しい、これも素晴らしい逸品。
◆「向付け」は、本鮪。山葵の代わりに辛味大根を醤油に溶いて頂く。山葵とは違うピリッとした辛さがあってこれもまたいい。冷酒、純米大吟醸、松の司(一合・2000円)と一緒に美味しく頂く。すっきりとしたキレのある瑞々しい口当たりと辛味大根が良く合う。
◆「焼き物」は、ほんもろこ。目の前で炭鉢の金網の上でじっくりと丁寧に頭まで焼いて頂く。カリカリで香ばしく、生姜酢と良く合う野趣溢れる素朴な一品。
◆「揚げ物」は、マナガツオのおかき揚げ。上から林檎の摺おろしがたっぷり掛かっている。何のおかきを砕いているのか、柿の種では無いような、サクサクの食感で、林檎の摺おろしも相まって洋風な味わいに仕上がっている。
◆「和え物」は、赤蕪と鰤と九条葱の菱重ね。酢味噌を掛けた九条葱の上に、甘酢に浸した赤蕪で鰤を挟んで、土佐酢ジュレを掛けた一品。目前で盛り付けてくれる、見た目にも綺麗、冷たくあっさりとした味わい。
◆「止め鍋」は、鯛と雲子の霙鍋。野菜は芹ときのこ、小皿に取り分けて頂き、上に柚子が添えられた一品。全体にあっさりとした上品で繊細な味わい、雲子はトロっとしてスッと食べれて、野菜も美味しく頂いた。
◆「お凌ぎ」は、懐紙に挟んだ唐墨餅。お餅がすごくきめ細かい、唐墨の塩辛さが絶妙なアクセントになっている。
◆「ご飯」は、白米、赤出汁、香の物。お米は和久傳の田んぼで稲から育てたコシヒカリ、土鍋で炊いてホクホクでとても美味しい。香の物は菊芋、白菜、昆布、菊芋の食感がシャキシャキしていて新鮮。
◆「水物」は、デコポンのゼリー。デコポンの皮にデコポンのゼリーを盛った、見た目にも大変美しい一品。プリプリでこれもあっさりとした味。和久傳オリジナルブレンドのかのは茶と一緒に美味しく頂いた。
全十一品、お昼は八寸は無いものの、素敵な磁器や漆器に目の前で華やかに盛り付けてくれる、割烹ならではのもてなしの心に感銘を受ける。今までこちら出身の料理人のお店を数々訪ね、今日、そのもてなしの心、素材や味、素朴だけれど洗練されたもの、求める美を改めてここに原点があることを実感した。初めて頂いた柚子釜の蒸し鮨、伝統の野菜の旨味が詰まった粕汁、野趣溢れるほんもろこ、とても美味しく頂いた、ご馳走様。これからも故きを温ねて新しきを知る文化を、和やかに久しく伝えて行くのだろう。