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芋羊羹
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すっぽんのちまき
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近江牛糠漬け茶漬け
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近江野菜
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エントランス
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インテリア
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お庭
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色んな漬けもの
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先付け
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かぼちゃ豆腐
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飲み物
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前八寸
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ちまき
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イチジク流し
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強肴
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秋玉玉蜀黍、落花生、柿、栗
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柿の葉
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椀の物
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にごいの飛龍頭
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箸休め
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バナーネいちじくの白和え
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焼き物
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近江牛と近江野菜
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ご飯
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近江牛の糠漬け
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水菓子
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芋羊羹とハーブティー
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部屋
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古民家
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玄関
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外観
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すっぽんちまきの具材
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飲み物メニュー
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お盆とお箸
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石馬寺の石階段
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石馬寺石庭
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
暦は寒露、鴻雁来たる、北から冬鳥が琵琶湖の湖畔に降り立つ季節。東近江に太子の足跡を訪ねて、石馬寺の秘仏に参拝。その後はもう一つのお目当てのこちらで薬膳を頂く。近くの観光センターに車を停めて、近江商人の五個荘川並集落の細い路地を歩いて、天明年間に建った築180年の秀明庵に辿り着く。暖簾を潜ると大きな金魚と沢山の漬け鉢に迎えられ座敷へと通して頂く。
暖かい信楽朝宮のほうじ茶でおもてなし頂き、お昼の薬膳（6600円）を頂く。のどの渇きは、地酒飲み比べセットを是非お願いしたいところだが、車なので梅ジュース（550円）とノンアル（495円）で乾杯。お料理は素敵な白木のお盆に:
◆「先付け」は、バターナッツ南瓜の豆腐。そーめん南瓜とおくらが添えられている。南瓜豆腐は爽やかな甘さであっさりとした味付け。そーめん南瓜のシャキッとした食感がそれを更に強調する。
◆「前八寸」は、風の神に豊穣の感謝と祝いの神饌。杉八寸に菊花皿、前から、お米のとぎ汁で発酵させすっぽんの形に切り抜いた胡瓜、その後ろがみりんで炊いた薩摩芋、ごりの佃煮、赤蒟蒻、大豆を発酵させて作ったテンペ、紐唐辛子、枝豆、その後ろに近江鴨のロース、黒豆、そして琵琶湖の天然すっぽんのちまき、最後がコリンキーの生南瓜と塩トマト。横には金色の器に入ったいちじくのすり流し。最初にいぐさを解いてちまきから頂く、ちまきは２６種の加薬が入っている渾身の逸品、正に滋味深い味。赤蒟蒻はこりこりした触感、ごリは生姜が効いて美味しい、鴨は香ばしく味わい深い、その後はいちじくのすり流しで整える、甘さが丁度いい、どれも素材を大事にした優しく繊細な逸品揃い。
◆「強肴」は、近江野菜。焼いた黒いちじくに柔らかな胡麻豆腐被せ、白い秋玉蜀黍、湯がいた落花生、少し焼きを入れた柿、栗、パプリカ。いちじくの甘さと豆腐のまったり感、パリッとした皮とドロッとした具と豆腐の食感が新鮮。玉蜀黍はほのかな甘さと出汁が効いて美味しい、柿も栗も焼くと一層甘さが引き立つ、食べ終わると色付いた柿の葉が一枚。どれも素材の味をとても大切にしている。
◆「椀の物」は、月見を描いた似鯉の真薯。素敵な金色の塗椀には、真薯の上に黒鮑茸、さなぎ茸、クコの実が添えられ、周りに山伏茸が金魚のように泳ぐ。真薯というか飛龍頭は、似鯉やヨクイニンなどが入った粒々食感、山伏茸のふわふわ感もいい、きのこの出汁が良く出ていてまったりとした滋味深い、五臓六腑に染み渡る最高の逸品。７０年のアンティークな椀は食べ終わると亀が現れる、正にハレの日の椀。
◆「箸休め」は、果物の白和え。地元穫れたてのバナーネいちじくにシャインマスカット、ドラゴンフルーツ、菊の花びらを添えた物。甘く優しい、一口で頂く。
◆「焼き物」は、近江牛と近江野菜。部位はいちぼ、焼き加減はミディアム、柔らかく甘さもあってとてもジューシーで、パンチの効いた味。万願寺唐辛子、男爵蓮根、たもぎ茸、黒鮑茸も美味しい、少し苦味のある赤軸ソレルはお肉と一緒に頂くと絶品。
◆「ご飯」は、近江牛の糠漬け茶漬け。ミルキークィーン米をベースに黒米、赤米、古代米などで握ったおにぎりの上に糠漬けで味付けした近江牛、茗荷、ねぎ、山椒の佃煮、あられを添えている。香の物は大根のはりはり漬け、瓜の浅漬け、昆布の佃煮。最初に近江牛の糠漬けを一口頂く、お肉の甘さと糠漬けがよく合う、次に鰹出汁を掛けてお茶漬けとして頂く、脂が良く出てこれもいい。香の物も美味しくあっという間にさらさらっと食べてしまった。
◆「水菓子」は、芋羊羹。揚げた芋のチップが添えられ、木目の板皿に凛として見た目にも美しい。芋羊羹は林檎も入った程よい明るい甘さ、チップのパリッとした食感、サワークリームともよく合う。レモングラスのハーブティーはあっさりとして菓子の甘さと相まって美味しい。
全八品、どれも地元の旬の素材をふんだんに使った、手間暇を惜しまずこしらえた素晴らしい逸品ばかり、その上、冬虫夏草、ヨクイニン、生姜、天然すっぽん、ハーブ、スペシャルきのこマイスターが育てた山伏茸など薬用効果も高く、正に薬食同源、健やかに身体の根幹から元気が沸き上がる。女将の心温まるおもてなしと素晴らしい料理の数々に六根に沁みる至福の時間を過ごさせて頂いた、ご馳走様。ここには、「そのために訪れる価値のある卓越した料理」が確かにある、また必ず再訪させて頂く。