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前から気になっていた「すし零」に初めて伺いました。店内は落ち着いた雰囲気で、カウンター越しに職人の所作を眺められる特等席。緊張感がありつつも居心地の良さもあり、期待感が高まります。
印象に残ったのは、毛ガニの茶碗蒸しに甘エビのビスクを重ねた一品。組み合わせの妙に鮨の新時代を感じさせられました。一方で握りはシマアジやスジアラが格別。昆布締めを思わせるほどの凝縮感がありましたが、実際は魚そのものの旨みでここまで仕上げているとのこと。素材の力を最大限に引き出す技に驚かされました。
革新的な発想と古典的な技術が見事に調和し、次代の鮨を体現する稀有な一軒。鮨好きなら一度は体験すべきだと感じました。