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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
夜ごはん
【食べログTOP1000】
■おまかせコース¥19,000（税サ込）
『鮨なんば 日比谷』や『鮨しゅん輔 阿佐ヶ谷』で研鑽を積んだ西崎亮平親方が、2022年4月にオープンした『鮨 西崎』。東北沢という寿司屋としてはあまり耳にしない立地ながら、その評判は高く、あっという間に予約困難、食べログでも4点に迫る3.88をマーク。
東北沢駅から歩いて5分ほど。住宅街にある打ちっぱなしの建物の地下1階。入り口のインターホンを鳴らし地下へと降りると、オープンまでカウンター席と障子で挟んだ待合室にて待機。
おまかせのコースは、税サ込みで¥19000。予約時に、ポケットコンシェルジュからすでに支払い済みなので、この日のお会計は、2人で一杯ずつ飲んだドリンク代¥1300のみ。
料理は、つまみから握りの構成。
寿司屋では珍しい野菜を用いた「イワシの酢の物」を挟んだり、一品一品に対する料理の説明から、親方の矜持が伝わる。
特に「あん肝」は、日比谷の『鮨 なんば』や阿佐ヶ谷の『鮨 しゅん輔』でも出される逸品。しかし、西崎親方は、教えを守りながらもオリジナルな「あん肝」へアップデートを図る。教えを守るだけが修行ではないですから、そう謙遜しながら話し、微笑む姿が印象的だ。
握りは、「春子鯛」から始まる。皮目を軽く炙り、昆布締めも軽めに仕上げた口溶け軽やか。圧巻は、「シロイカ」。極薄に切りつけミルフィーユ状にすることで、シロイカのポテンシャルを底上げ。サクッとした食感を残しつつ、とろける握りに仕上がっている。また、「煮蛤」は63度で低温調理。試行錯誤の上、たどり着いたのがこの温度だそう。そして、ツメを使わず、蛤の煮汁を煮詰めたものをさっと塗る。噛みしめるごとに、蛤の旨みがあふれる構造だ。白甘鯛は、昆布締めの前に、日本酒の磯自慢で塩抜き。「イサキ」は、信頼を置く仲買のおすすめだそうで、淡白な白身のなかにも旨みある脂を感じる。「マグロ」は、塩釜産の赤身と中トロ。旨みと鉄分を強く感じる握りだ。
実に美味しかった。言葉の端々から伝わる親方の寿司へのこだわりや想いは、求道者のよう。港区や銀座に出店せずとも、実力さえあれば人は集まる。立地など関係ないのだ。
〈酒肴〉
1.明石煮蛸
2.青海苔とアサリだしの茶碗蒸し
3.本マス・真鯛・水蛸のお造り
4.白バイ貝の酒蒸し
5.イワシの酢の物
6.太刀魚の炙り
7.ホタルイカの有馬煮
8.あん肝
〈握り〉
9.カスゴダイ
10.シロイカ
11.煮ハマグリ
12.白甘鯛昆布締め
13.イサキ
14.マグロ
15.中トロ
16.コハダ
17.車海老
18.平貝
19.紫雲丹
20.穴子
21.お椀
22.玉