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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
〈ミトミえもん、インスタもやってるよ！「＠mitomi_emon」〉
屋形船の本来の姿は、実に明快だ。食は脇役、会話と景色が主役。江戸の時代、屋形船は料理屋ではなく、水の上で時間を共有するための遊興だった。酒を酌み交わし、風や月を肴にする。その空気の中に、料理は静かに置かれていただけに過ぎない。その前提を、ひっくり返したのが、水辺に浮かぶ『屋形船 いざなぎ』だ。ここで行われているのは、屋形船文化の延長でも、焼き直しでもない。これまで脇役だった食を、完全なる主役に据え直し、その食を食べるために景色の意味そのものを組み替えている。料理が場に寄り添うのではなく、景色が料理に従う。その順番を反転させた試みが、この船にはある。
いざなぎのもう一つの特徴は、固定の料理人を持たないことにある。名店がかわるがわるこの船を預かり、その一航海を丸ごと任される。グルメ界隈で名を挙げれば、知らぬ人がいない店の名前が並ぶ。この日、そのバトンを握ったのが天ぷらの名店「くすのき」だ。屋形船と聞いて、多くの人がまず思い浮かべるのは天麩羅だろう。そのイメージのど真ん中にある料理を、最高到達点の解像度でぶつけてくる。この王道を頂点で提示できることこそ、いざなぎのアップデートだ。
この日の料理を貫いていたのは、明確な構成意識だ。前菜から始まり、天麩羅へ向かうための準備が丁寧に積み上げられていく。いきなり揚げの快楽に振り切るのではなく、味覚を整え、温度を合わせ、素材を理解させた上で、最大の見せ場へと導く。その流れが一切ぶれない。食材は、蟹や河豚を中心とした冬の主役級ばかり。揚げの技術だけで成立させるのではなく、素材そのものの強さを正面から受け止める構成だ。鬼に金棒とは、まさにこのこと。
そして何より、くすのき最大の魅力である揚げの技術。ここでの天麩羅は、油を食べさせる料理じゃない。油は主張しない。素材に正確に、そして一気に熱を入れるための手段でしかない。その高温でしか引き出せない甘み、香り、旨味が、最も美しい瞬間で立ち上がる。その精度が、船の上という不安定な環境でも一切揺らがない。この事実こそが、くすのきの凄みである。
……なんてことを言いながら、ふと目を上げたら、このサンセットだ。
結局、景色は強い。でもここが面白いところで、この夕焼けは主役を奪わない。さっきまで口の中に残っていた河豚の旨味や、海老の香ばしさを、そっと引き立てる側に回る。料理が記憶に残り、その余韻の上に景色が重なる。ああ、これはやっぱり反則だな。ご馳走様でした。
料理のラインナップはこちら。
「クワイのチップス」
「蕪のする流し」 蟹味添え
「河豚」てっさ
「海老」
「海老」２本目は海老ソースで
「海老頭」海老ソース
「百合根」
「白甘鯛」
「芹のお浸し」河豚出汁で作った
「椎茸」
「河豚」
「河豚白子」身を巻いたもの
「河豚白子」
「蟹」紫蘇で巻いたもの
「蟹」味噌をつけて
「ガリのシャーベット」
「唐墨」
「河豚の炊き込みご飯」骨付きの部分が主役
「天ばら」