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銀座8丁目の路地裏、ビル2Fの小料理屋「きく」へ行ってきた。扉を開けると、カウンター越しに職人さんの手元が見えて、店内は常連さんの会話でふわっと温度が上がる。なのに不思議と肩肘張らず、女将さんの一言で緊張がほどける感じがいい。銀座で「飲みのあと、最後にちゃんと食べたい」日に刺さるタイプ。ひとりでも、同伴でも、仲間とでも使える懐の深さ。
この日は刺身(鮪の赤身とイカ)がまず端正。だし巻きはふわっと甘みが立ち、大根おろしで後味がすっと切れる。ポテサラ&マカロニサラダの素朴さ、青菜の小鉢、銀杏の香ばしさ…“シンプルが強い”つまみが続く。名物の小アジフライは尾びれが立つ揚げたてで、衣サクサク・身はふっくら。唐揚げ、メンチカツ、畳鰯のパリパリをつまみ、最後は海苔で包むおにぎりで締め。初訪でも料理の強さで納得させてくる、通いたくなる一軒でした。