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九段下の静寂に現れた新星「seto」。29歳の脊戸壮介シェフが描くのは、既存の枠を超えた「香りの構築」だ。北欧やペルーの名店で培った発酵技術を、あくまで自然と滲み出る要素として扱い、皿の上に純粋な味のレイヤーを積み上げていく。
彼の料理には、いわゆる「メインディッシュ」というヒエラルキーが存在しない。全ての皿がフラットに並び、美しい旋律のように流れる。中でも松葉で燻した紅茶「ラプサンスーチョン」で火入れされた鴨や、クロモジと筍の皮を使ったすっぽん出汁は圧巻。口に含めば、雨上がりの森のような静謐で力強い香気が広がる。
これは単なる食事ではなく、脊戸壮介というフィルターを通した没入体験。食通たちがざわつき始めた今、予約が取れるうちに訪れるべき一軒だ。