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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
琵琶湖線に揺られて田園風景を眺めながらはじめて余呉へ。
駅で友人たちと合流し、送迎車に乗り込み、余呉湖沿いを走ると現れる徳山鮓。ランチに訪問。
暖簾にオーラを感じる(^^;
暖簾をくぐるとシカの頭！さらに進むと余呉湖が窓越しに見える。テラスにも出られる。素晴らしいロケーションとしつらえ。これからすごい体験が待っているんだ、という期待が高まる。
席につく。お酒はお任せにすると七本槍のシリーズ。
前菜はジビエのテリーヌ、稚鮎の酢の物、オクラなどの野菜を山椒のソースで。
お造りは鯉を魚卵で和えたもの。山葵は大根と混ぜてあるのかソフトな印象。鯉というと泥臭いたいうイメージだがよい意味で裏切られた。
続く鹿肉のロースト(？)と鰻の焼物。一筋の飯(いい)のソースがビジュアルと風味のアクセント。鹿はしっとりとした食感と味わいで、鰻は表面のクリスプ感と鰻らしい味わい。コントラストを楽しめる。
稚鮎と蕨の天ぷらは長い食器に全員分が整然と並べられ、フォトジェニック！味わうと稚鮎の旨味とほろ苦さや蕨のねっとりとした食感がクリスプな衣の中から現れる絶妙なもの。
続いて熊鍋。見た目はハリハリ鍋風。たっぷりの山椒と水菜(？)と一緒にいただく。驚いたのは熊の脂の香りとスープ、肉のうまさ！調理によって絶妙に熊肉の旨さが引き出されているのだろうがなんという絶妙さか！野菜もその汁が絡み、しゃきしゃき感と旨味が一体となる。
真打ちの鮓は鎌倉彫りのような重厚な箱で登場。ふたを開けるとプーンと発酵の香り。なれずしと合わせることをイメージして作られたリースニングとともにいただく。なれずしはその見た目の美しさに感動する。口に含むと旨味と酸味を中心とした風味がおしよせてくる。リースニングを口に含むとリンスされるだけでなく、ふなずしの余韻が残る。鯖のなれずしはカチョカバロとトマトのソースとももに一気に頬張ると感動的なハーモニーが口中に拡がり、とろけていく。これはすごい！
そして熊鍋の出汁の雑炊と糠漬け。色のうすい卵はなんの秘密が隠されているのだろう。お料理の説明を丁寧にいただいていたがこの辺りで伺わずにただ、お料理に陶酔する感じになってしまった。
デザートはふな鮓の飯(いい)のアイスクリーム。チーズケーキのような濃厚さがあるが後味はスッキリしている。
滋賀の山と湖と歴史のの幸を味わいつくすお料理は素晴らしかった。また違う季節を味わいにきたい。