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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
点数が低い様に見えますが食べログの性質上、テイクアウトファストフードから三つ星レストランなんかもこの5段階の評価の内ですので悪いという意味ではありません。
ディナーで初めてお邪魔しました。
仲間内でも数多く噂になっているお店。
7月のミシュラン富山発表以降では予約困難になることも踏まえて一足先に来ました。
富山の中心から車で30分程山の方へ。
ホテル「雅樂倶」内B1レストラン。
このホテル自体も凄い凄いとは聞いていましたが、まるで美術館。現代アートの美術館がそのままホテルになったような作り。
外観から圧倒され、中に入れば入るほどにさらに圧倒されます。全てがアートな世界観のホテルです。抜かりはありません。
このホテルの演出自体もレヴォへと繋がる１つなのでしょうか。
エレベーターを降り。すぐ。
黒いトンネルのような鏡張りのエントランスに近未来的な雰囲気で進行方向へと照明が照らされており、待ち受けて奥にスタッフが仰々しく出迎えてくれています。
予約時にサービスチャージ、TAX込みでの価格に驚きましたが、入り口から既にコストパフォーマンスを上回っています。
突き当たりを左に。突然トンネルを抜けたと同じ様に広い空間とナチュラルかつアートな雰囲気が飛び込んできます。ここで食事をするのか！と楽しみになります。席は余裕があれば窓際にとってもらい、日が暮れながら食事を楽しむのもオススメです。
席につく途中。
右手に個室、左手にワインルーム、さらに左手にキッチンがガラス張りに見えました。
席に到着すると椅子までしっかりとひいてくれめす。窓辺に案内され、湖畔が夕暮れで美しいです。
スタッフは身だしなみ、言葉遣い、立ち居振る舞いまで良く意識されています。
テーブルは広め。
テーブルクロスは無しだが、マットは敷かれています。
テーブルには引き出しがあり、中にカトラリーと今日のお料理のメニューがありました。
カトラリーはラギオールとクチポール、お箸などは作家さんの物（売店で販売されてました。）これも最近は見かけますが美しいです。
おしぼりとテーブルランプにもレヴォの刻印。厚手のおしぼりは気持ちがいいです。
ドリンクを注文します。
同じ時間か30分ずらしくらいで他のお客さんも来られています。ほぼ宿泊のお客さんです。浴衣を着様されてます。チラホラですがこの手のお店に行くと見られますが海外のゲストも。
そしてお料理がスタートします。
メニューにはプロローグと書かれた内容。
（ちなみにメニューの最後はエピローグとは書かれていません。不整合を見つけてしまいました。）
プロローグとあるだけにドキドキして待つと。
◆松の器で出てきました。
ヤギのチーズのグジェール。グリュイエールの代わりにヤギのチーズで作ったシュー。中にも上にもチーズが大量。ヤギのチーズはどこ産かは聞き忘れましたが、通常のクジェールより風味を強く感じました。シューの下にも座りを良くするための工夫もあり丁寧な仕事です。
器と見せ方がクリエイティブ。
◆錫の器。軽く焼いた昆布の最中。中にはカリフラワーのピュレとキャビア。富山で有名な最中の物です。それに焼き目を付け、ピュレを。塩味はキャビアで。
これも最中がふやけるのでその場作りで仕上げるのでパリッとしていて風味と塩味もバランス良く美味しいです。富山の錫の器がクリエイティブで美しいです。
◆木の器と山椒の枝。富山のげんげに山椒をまぶして揚げ揚げた物。見たことのない器で作家さんのものかな。
◆錫製のカップ。雲丹を乗せた白海老コンソメジュレビシソワーズ。最下部にはコシアブラが細かくされて入っていました。トップには紫蘇の花穂。シブレット。所々に地元の山菜が見えます。
バランスが良い味。雲丹とコンソメジュレ。ビシソワーズとねっとりとした白エビ。コシアブラの軽い苦味。
カップ下にもレヴォの刻印が。
◆蒼い銅？のプレートで出てきたのが、海洋深層水で育て藁でスモークし天然酵母で揚げた牡蠣のフリット。スモークが香り、フリットの中からスープがジュワッと。これは牡蠣だけに最後に食べたいところ。とてもわかりやすいメニュー。当然だけど美味しい。
ここまでがプロローグ。
アミューズや前菜とも呼ばれるのでしょうか。
レヴォのプロローグは5種が畳み掛ける様に、出てきます。全てが美しく豪華で。こちらが食べ終わる終わらないは関係なく畳み掛ける様に。しかも美味しい。
「おぉ！」「おぉぉ！！」「おおぉぉぉ！！」っと言った感じに。普通の人ならこのスタートのプロローグでやられてしまいあとはレヴォさんの術中なのだろうが。私は負けない。なんとか踏ん張れました。
◆海藻を練り込んだ塩バター。フランス産。
スモークはしてないとのことだが、とても香ばしい香りがするのは発酵バターだけらかな？
ガラスの器にレヴォの刻印。作家作かな。
◆富山の米粉の丸パン。米粉だけにかもしれないが、ややしっとり感もあります。丸パンがありがたい。
◆前菜（サラダ）
直火で炙った七尾市のとり貝。カブの葉のオイル。柑橘でマリネしたカブ。カリカリに揚げた山ウド。新玉ねぎのピュレ。パクチー。コリアンダーの花。
あっさりしてエキゾチックなグリーンな味。
見た目と味のイメージもぴったり。
炙ったとり貝とあくの強いウドやパクチーが主の味わい。とても美味しいです。
◆蛍烏賊の野菜のブイヨン釜揚げ。
胴は沖漬け。足は炭火焼。アンダーには地物菜花のソース。揚げた人参のパリパリ。マスタードが隠し味で良いアクセント。飾りにも菜花の花の部分を。
富山といえばこの時期旬の滑川の蛍烏賊。
地元の食材をうまく使って、さらに丁寧で意思のある仕事と味。
◆Virgin egg（バージンエッグ）縁起物の卵をポーチドエッグにし、ブラックペッパー。甘口ワインの泡とスペイン伝統のピペラードのソース。鳥とベーコンの優しいソース。トップには丸いマーシュ（コーンサラダ）の葉。山椒とも書かれていましたがあんまり感じられませんでした。
イメージはハムエッグ！かな。器も見たことが無いものでとても良かった。
◆フィンガーボール
紅茶で油はけを良くしてあります。
◆L'evo鳥 ヤリイカ クレソン。
生後30日の若い鳥をL'evoの為だけに契約農家で育ててもらっているとか。それを捌き低温調理して柑橘でマリネしたヤリイカと天然のクレソンをトップに。レバー心臓の部位は柑橘でソテーして同じくマリネ。ソースも柑橘。
レヴォ鳥がやたらと柔らかくて軟骨まで柔らかい。さすが生後30日の鳥。これは価値のある一品。もちろんお皿も美しい。
◆のどぐろ 炭火焼白アスパラ ヤブレガサ
のどぐろとホワイトアスパラは炭火焼で。
生ハムソースとウニの粉末。
山菜のヤブレガサはフリット（天かす）でチップに。
のどぐろなので十分美味しい。
生ハムのソースはさすがベルナールロワゾーといった感じです。ヤブレガサのフリットもとてもよい食感。
◆甘鯛 未熟ぶどう 西洋山葵
ふっくら甘鯛鱗焼き。甘鯛の出汁とのソース。トップに揚げたアサツキ。揚げたアサツキ少し苦い演出。ブイヨンと出汁のソース強めの塩味。軽いスモークの香りかな？味は思ってたより普通。ソースが特別。鱗焼きの食感が好きです。
◆池多牛
地元の池多牛。テールのソース。セリ。姫しいたけ。ゆりね。うすい豆ピュレ。セロリラブピュレ。
思ってるより肉自体が歯ごたえ。繊維感。どたらかというと肉の味が強めのおにく。
しいたけが美味しい。テールのソースが美味しいし意外にあっさり。塩味は強め。
http://ikedafarm.com
すごくこだわりのあるお肉。
ガルニにも満足。
◆バケット
外カリカリ。なかふわ。 香りよし。
◆小矢部のトマトとはるイチゴと飛騨モッツァレラ
潰しイチゴの上にトマトスープ。飛騨モッツァレラをエスプーマしてイチゴのチップとバジルソース。
チップパリパリ。エスプーマのとろみ。トマトの酸味と甘みバジルオイル。潰しイチゴがものすごく美味しくて少し感動。甘さと酸味が絶妙。全体の味のバランスも。
器も独特で美しい。
◆呉羽梨 山田村のリンゴ
リコッタの液体窒素の粒。着けた呉羽梨と焼いた山田村のリンゴ。バジルとルッコラの飴。
菊菜のパウダー。
このデザートはお口直しのような味。少し苦味のある、あっさりした味。
最後まで美しい。
http://www.shoku-toyama.jp/season/s029/
サービス、お料理、空間、雰囲気、コストパフォーマンス、地元感、オンリーワン感、とても良いお食事でした。
そしてこのレストランには「温泉」が付いています。
食事を終わってからでも十分間に合います。
タオル等のサニタリーも全て良いもので揃えられており、手ぶらで大丈夫です。
お風呂も露天もあり湖畔沿いに超開放的で最高でした。
アート、食事、温泉。このセットで大満足です。
またお邪魔します。