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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
2回目の訪問となった成生。初訪問で体験した“天ぷらの概念が変わる瞬間”が忘れられず、再びその世界観に浸りたくなる店は数えるほどしかないが、成生はまさにそのひとつだ。今回の訪問でも、料理の完成度、素材の扱い、テンポのよい提供、静かで凛とした空気感、すべてが極めて高い次元で成立しており、やはり特別な場所だと再認識した。
最初の小皿から、天ぷら専門店の枠を超えた丁寧な仕事が光る。和え物や鮮魚の一皿は、胃を落ち着かせながらも期待を確実に引き上げる。刺身では軽やかな脂と香りが際立ち、天ぷらの前に“素材を味わう感覚”をセットしてくれる。
続く天ぷらが圧巻だった。まず衣が尋常ではなく繊細。薄いのに香ばしさと存在感があり、素材の一瞬の旨味を閉じ込めるためだけに存在しているようだ。オクラは種の瑞々しさが爆ぜるようで、魚は脂と旨味の層がそのまま舌に乗る。海老の頭は香ばしさが弾けるような食感で、酒飲みにはたまらない。
シェフが見せてくれる大ぶりの蟹や、目の前で扱われる活きの良い魚——この“ライブ感”も成生の魅力だ。天ぷらは素材を揚げるというより、素材の生命力を一段階引き上げて皿に乗せるような印象。蟹は身の甘みが凝縮され、野菜は香りの奥行きが広がる。
特に印象深かったのは、巨大な舞茸。そして断面が鮮やかなサツマイモ。どちらも主役級の存在感で、舞茸は香りが立ち上がり続け、サツマイモは甘さがほとんど蜜のように濃い。
途中で提供された小魚の天ぷらは、衣の軽さと旨味の立ち方が絶妙で、大根おろしと合わせると一気に食事のリズムが整う。こうした“間”の作り方が本当に上手い。
終盤には揚げたての魚をご飯と合わせる一皿も登場。炊き立てのツヤツヤした米を目の前で見せてくれる演出も成生らしく、最後の天ぷら寿司、さらに締めの天茶のような一杯は、天ぷらのコースが“食事として完結する”満足感を与えてくれる。
2回目の訪問でも、一切の迷いがなく、料理の完成度はむしろ前回より上がっている印象すら受けた。天ぷらが好きとか嫌いとか、そういう次元を超えて“料理としての快楽”を与えてくれる稀有な店。間違いなくまた訪れたいと思わせてくれる天ぷらの名店だった。