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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
銀座のど真ん中にありながら、「フレンチ」という固定観念を軽やかに裏切ってくる稀有な店。それが銀座大石だ。店に足を踏み入れた瞬間から、伝統的なフレンチの格式よりも、どこか寿司屋のカウンターに座ったようなライブ感に包まれる。ドレスコードもなく、肩肘張らない空気が店全体に漂う。この「フレンチなのにフレンチらしくない」独自の世界観こそ、大石の魅力と言える。
カウンター越しには大きな声で料理を説明し、小話をテンポよく挟んでくるシェフの姿。どこか、和食店の店主のような熱量と親しみやすさがある。しかし提供される料理は対照的にクラシックの安心感をしっかりと根底に残した、完成度の高いフランス料理だ。このギャップが心地よく、気づけば食体験そのものにぐっと引き込まれている。
印象的だったのが、さんまをケール生地で包んだ一皿。見た目はフレンチらしく整っているが、口に運ぶとどこかケバブのラップサンドを思わせるような酸味と馴染みやすい風味が広がる。重さは一切なく、親しみのある味わいと上質な素材感が見事に同居している。秋刀魚という日本的な素材に、こうしたアプローチを施すセンスが実に面白い。
そして圧巻だったのが、牛フィレ肉（シャトーブリアン）のパイ包み。一般的には炭火焼でいただくことの多い部位だが、パイで包むことで内部の肉が驚くほど柔らかく、とろけるような質感になることを初めて知った。香ばしいパイの層とジューシーな肉のコントラストが素晴らしく、クラシック技法の底力を体感できる一皿。フレンチでシャトーブリアンをパイにするのは珍しいらしいが、その特別感もまた心に残った。
全体として前評判の通りかなりのボリュームがあるのだが、不思議と胃が重たくならない。ひと皿ごとの構成がよく練られていて、味の流れが自然だからだろう。コースを終えるころには満足感がしっかりと満ちていて、「誰かを連れてまた来たい」と素直に思える一軒だった。
フレンチの格式と、寿司屋のカウンターのライブ感。クラシックとカジュアル。伝統と遊び心。相反する要素が絶妙に同居した、唯一無二の銀座フレンチ。紹介したくなるし、大切な人を連れて行きたくなる。そんな店だ。