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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
関内/馬車道から徒歩7分くらい。
周辺は外食多しだがジャンルとこだわりも多様。
単価が低すぎるお店やチェーン店はないエリア。
里葉亭出身/キャリア10年/ソムリエ/今風イケメン/といういそうでいない焼き師の店主。
入口は店頭のみ遊びを残し、ワンクッション。そこまで凝ってはいない。
・鶏むねネギマ
・鶏わさ卵黄海苔
・鳥の巣に見立てたうずらのサラダ
・刺身(ささみ、レバー)
・箸休め 香の物
・鶏むねたたき
・つくねちょうちん
・ハツ
・生つくね茶碗蒸し 丹波栗の摺り流し
・茄子
・レバームース
・かしわ
・厚揚げ
・銀杏
・大根とレモンのジュース
・レバー
・京都大黒本しめじ
・月見つくね＆トリュフがけ
お酒は赤星の後は店主におまかせで。
乾杯酒で最初のセッティング時に裏返してある盃に十四代を注いでくれました。
盃もう少しおしゃれでもいいのにとは思いましたが恰好いい始まり方です。
ペアリング、というにはあまりにも並々と注いでくださるので、3品分くらいを通して飲めてしまうので、出してもらったお酒に合うものもあれば合わない、と感じるものもありました。でも一串一串、には無理なので「ペアリング」ではなく「店主にお任せ」というスタンスなら全然有りです。
店主、焼き師とワイン談義が出来るのは居心地いいのでそこもとても楽しめます。
鶏は高坂鶏です。
1串目のムネのねぎまはムネとは思えないくらい皮と肉の間の脂のジューシーさが驚愕の串です。
鶏わさの海苔(四八と同じものを使っているようです)の厚みとバリっと感、は自分が食べている音に驚いてしまうほど。
サラダは見立て、というよりドレッシングの味、が何とも絶妙。つまみにもなるサラダです。
刺身はそのねっとり感もさることながらごま油とねぎ油をパウダー状にしたものを添えて付けた上で、ごま油か塩、で食べる、という変化を付けているのはさすがです。
香の物は一つ一つが違う漬け方で鶏味噌とエシャレットの組み合わせは絶品。
ハツは半割タイプ。とにかく脂が乗っている。
茶碗蒸しは生つくねを入れてそのまま蒸しているタイプ。栗の摺り流しはこれほど合うとは食べる前には想像できなかった絶妙のバランスで相乗効果がある。栗の素材の良さが引き立つ一皿。
茄子に関しては野菜の切り方、焼き方、もここまでゴールイメージして調理する事が大事だと気付く品。茄子の皮目の焼き方と柔らかくジューシーな肉質を活かせるのはなかなかないと思う。鶏は皮目を焼くのにしっかり気遣うのに同じレベルの気遣いが茄子の皮に出来てない焼鳥屋の野菜串は多いと思う。
ただ炭で火を通す、という野菜串になってしまっていないか？を焼き師に問う串だと思う。
大根とレモンのジュースは口直し。これのクオリティがどうこう、は特にないが、鬼おろしや浅漬けが多い中では新鮮に感じる。
本しめじは椎茸にしか見えず、そこからの会話で実はしめじで、というくだりは計算されている(笑) こういう必然の会話をする工夫が随所にあるのがお見事。
トリュフも目の前ですってくれる。スライスよりも香りが立つ削る感じで。より一体感が出ます。しかもこのつくねを焼いている時に藁を1本、最後にまた1本、入れて香りを付けていた。炭と藁とトリュフの織り成す香りの三重奏にやられる。特等席だから入れているの見えたけどこんな隠れた工夫、正面の人には伝わらない。でも焼き師自身の遊び心が強く表れていて食べていて楽しくなるコースでした。
BKに1人、焼き師、表を2名。
10席。
余裕はあるが、基本的に焼き師の店主が全てをコントロール。
サービスし、会話し、酒を見繕い、注ぎ、を全て1人でこなす。
焼き台は2台。
大と小。
野菜は小、肉は大、で焼いていたように思う。
基本的に18時、20時40分、とかの2回転完全入れ替え制だが、とはいえ初回も計4組中連れが20分～30分遅れる組みが2組。
その内一組は一人で食べ始め、もう一組は揃うまで待つ、など結局焼き始めはバラバラ。
だいたい刺身の前後で4組を揃えにいってた感じで、コントロールは都度行えていた。
2回転目も早めに来る組、遅れる組、でその案内、応対も全て焼き師の店主が対応。
25歳には最後まで思えなかった堂々ぶりに脱帽です。