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八寸
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春鉢
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外観
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あまご
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塩鮭の燻製ごはん
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猪の沢煮鍋
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三宝柑ぬた和え
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焼き物 あまご
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椀物 花巻仕立て
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鯉の造り
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鯉の造り
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八寸
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猪の沢煮鍋
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猪の沢煮鍋
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腕物 花巻き仕立て 蛤とそら豆のしんじょ
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あまご
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しらすと辛み大根の染め下ろし丼
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自家製漬物
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鯖と鰤のへしこ茶漬け
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猪の沢煮鍋
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美山の戸川養鶏場の卵かけご飯
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猪カレー(＋¥700)
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ご飯もの 桜エビのかき揚げ
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しらすと辛み大根の染め下ろし丼
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猪の沢煮鍋
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八寸
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春鉢 山菜と赤貝の和え物
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日向夏のチーズムース 二番茶
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作り立ての練りきり
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手土産 のどら焼きも大将お手製です(自宅にて)
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手土産 どら焼きもお手製でした(自宅にて)
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手土産: 自家製どら焼き
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高槻地ビール
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大嶺3粒 生原酒
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店内
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店内
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竈門
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店内
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店内
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手ぬぐいは持って帰れるそうです
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桃の花の咲く頃に 白桃の烏龍茶
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外観
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ドリンクメニュー
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ドリンクメニュー
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
高槻の山里樫田地区の一軒の古民家にポツンと店を構える日本料理「心根 こころね」。
なんとも行きづらい場所ではありますがこの店には態々でも来たいその価値がある。
あの美山荘の料理長であった京都老舗日本料理「草喰なかひがし」中東氏の料理に感銘を受け、「草喰料理」その理念を受け継いだ店主の【片山城きずく】氏が創り上げる活きた食材と手間を惜しまぬ料理が味わえると噂に聞き、今宵ベールに包まれた山里料理に逢いに来たという訳です。
JR高槻駅から送迎車に乗り山道を登ること約40分、大きな梅の木の側にひっそりと立つ古民家に到着します。
扉を覆うほどの大きな暖簾を括り広々とした土間をぬけると端正な造りのカウンター先のテーブルに案内されました。
洗練されているのにどこか素朴な風合いを残すリノベされた内装、奥へと導く「香」の香りとさり気なく生けられた野花の凛とした表情にもてなしの心を会得する。
今夜は心根コース¥22,000をお願いしています。
上は¥44,000のコースまで有るそうで大将の自信と確固たる信念が伺え実に興味深い。
今宵はどんな料理と巡り合えるだろう。
先ずは香りのいい白桃の烏龍茶から。
こちらでは春分や秋分、夏至、冬至といった二十四の節気(約15日ごと)をまとめて更に細かい季節感を料理で表現されているそうです。
この時は春の走り、「啓蟄（けいちつ）」にあたり冬ごもりしていた虫が穴を開けて地中から顔を出すそろそろ暖かくなる時期なのだとか。
黄色の鮮やかな「春鉢」と名付けられた器にはお日さんめがけて伸びる山菜たちの跳ね返すような食感と其々の持つ旨味に大地のエネルギーを感じました。
八寸では春の節句にちなんだ女雛の器が添えられ、
蓋を取ると朝摘みした蕗のとうの白和えが入っていました。
「美味しい。」
私は途端に気に入り蕗のとうの溢れるばかりの香りからすり鉢で丁寧に擦る姿が浮かぶほど。
贅沢な苦味、気付けばもう春の虜になっている。
貝合わせの皿の八寸は虹鱒の木の芽鮨、茨木市で獲られた鹿肉の生春巻き等盛り合わせの美しさ楽しさに合わせて杯が進みます。
続く造りは淡水魚、大将の強い拘りの一つです。
泳がせ泥抜きした臭みの無い鯉の味には華やかな透明感がありその食べ易さに驚かされます。
サクっと揚げた鱗と湯引きで一物全体がこの一皿に集約され五感が研ぎ澄まされてゆくのがわかる。
春を呼ぶたんぽぽに見立てた金柑を齧るとフワッと香る柑橘の香りがまた憎い。
啓蟄に解禁されたアマゴは中骨を抜き頭から尾まで丸ごと食べられる香ばしくじっくりと焼き上げられた焼き物。
渋めの備前焼に魚が跳ねた時の波紋に見立てたかつらむきの新じゃがが生き生きとその描写を現しています。
指に馴染む辻村塊の猪口が離れず
コース後半は三宝柑のぬた和え、猪の沢煮鍋と自生している山菜を大将自ら摘み食材となった料理に舌鼓を打つ。
食材たちは命を絶たれ、料理となり再び息を吹き込まれる、綺羅星の如く創意が皿に宿るように。
3種類のご飯もの以外に追加(＋¥700)のご飯ものも充実する竈門炊き白米がなんと言っても極上、
どんなウワモノを持って来ても合わないはずがなくひと口と言いながらぺろりと平らげてしまう。
最後の水物も日向夏のチーズムースと寒梅に見立てた練り切り、大将の片山さんは和菓子の修行もされていたそうで手土産に持たされるどら焼きまでの一切がお手製、これだけ手をかけた料理は初めていただきました。
高級食材を並べ立てるだけの切って貼った料理と何が違うのか。
来たら分かります。
大将の揺るぎなき情熱が具現化された唯一無二の「草喰料理」益々今後が楽しみです。
素晴らしかった。
◆◇◆◇◆◇◆◇◆◇◆◇◆◇
【心根コース】¥22,000(税込)＋ドリンク
◆桃の花の咲く頃に 白桃の烏龍茶
◆春鉢 春の山菜と赤貝
◆八寸 ・鹿肉の生春巻き
・鱒寿司
・蛸
・卵黄味噌漬け
・玉子焼き
・蕗のとうの白和え
◆椀物 海苔 蛤のしんじょ そら豆
◆向付け 鯉とホッキ貝 わさび和え
皮の湯引き 金柑
◆焼き物 アマゴ 新じゃが アミカサ茸 のびる
◆三宝柑ぬた和え 蛍烏賊 わけぎ 三宝柑
◆猪のお鍋 猪 うど せり うるい
【ご飯もの3種】
◆シラスとカラミ大根のご飯
◆自家製漬物
キャベツ・セロリ・山芋・昆布・芽キャベツ・紅い大根
◆桜エビのかき揚げ丼
◆塩しゃけの燻製
◆菓子
・日向夏のチーズムース 二番茶
・寒梅 練り切り
◆手土産: 自家製どら焼き
【ドリンク】
◇国の長ビール(高槻地ビール)
◇Lunaria Malvasid グラスワイン
◇日本酒ペアリング
・大嶺3粒 生原酒
・綿谷 特別純米酒
・爾今
・光栄菊 無濾過生原酒
・大治郎 純米火入れ
【もう少し食べたい人に】
◆醤油麹 自家製カラスミ 木の芽(＋¥700)
美山の戸川養鶏場平飼い卵の卵かけご飯
◆自家製猪カレー(＋¥700)
◆鯖と鰤のへしこ茶漬け 梅味(＋¥700)