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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ついに念願叶い軽井沢のこちらのお店に訪問することが出来た。
新規予約不可でしたがご縁あり1年ちょっと待って初訪問。
お店は軽井沢の中心からは少し離れた貸別荘施設内にあるが来年の夏頃にすぐ近くに移転するようです。
中に入ると昼は2組、夜は1組限定のプレミアムシート。
ペアリング込みでノンアルコールをチョイス。
私達は6人いましたがお料理はスタッフの皆さんで同時にテーブルに運んでくれシェフ自らが料理の説明をする。
お料理の概要は以下の通り
①ザリガニ、ローストパプリカ、味噌
ザリガニの泥臭さなどは一切なく口当たり良い一品からスタート
②素麺、アオリイカ、茄子、胡瓜、ハチミツ、ジュンサイ
初夏らしい爽やかな一品
③夏の鹿フィレ、バター、プルーン、黒ニンニク、和辛子、カラシナ
鹿肉を衣で揚げた状態での提供はなかなか経験がなくナイフを入れると驚くほど抵抗が無くシルキーさとソースのマリアージュにうっとり。
④サーモン、蕪、トマトソース、ざくろ、いちじく、奈良漬、金柑
このお店のスペシャリテ。3年かけて育てたサーモンを3週間熟成、発酵させた蕪と合わせ酸味のあるソースと合わせている。待ち焦がれた料理の美しさとサーモンのギュッと凝縮された旨みに感動しました。
⑤とうもろこし、キャラメル、マンゴー、マリーゴールド
砂糖等はもちろん使わず、まだ甘くなりきらないとうもろこしのみを使用しているがとうもろこしの甘みを最大限に引き出したアイスは今まで食べてきたどのとうもろこしよりも甘く、とうもろこしのポテンシャルの高さとそれを引き出す技術にまた感動し、これっきりこれが食べられないと思うと目がうるうるしました。
⑥鮎、万願寺唐辛子、スイカソース
個体差が出にくい養殖の鮎を使用。春巻き仕立てになっているが、この衣が一周のみで包まれ通常バリバリ感じる衣もサクッと歯切れが良く心地よい。鮎は人生一ふわふわな仕上がりになっていて驚愕。
⑦牛、レバー、筍
メインは牛以外の方が個人的には好きだがこの日の牛は格別でレバーの旨みもすごかった。
⑧ズッキーニご飯、雲丹
このお料理に鈴木シェフの料理への探究心が詰まっているように感じた。まずズッキーニを丸こげにし1本1本ズッキーニの汁を搾り出し、水不使用でその搾り汁のみでご飯を炊いている。どうしたらそのようなことを思いつくのか、、きっといろいろ試したことは想像つくし、見た目以上に手間暇をかけた料理はズッキーニの風味をダイレクトに感じ、雲丹の味と合わさり感涙ものでした。
⑨カシスアイス
これまでの料理の余韻に浸りながらアイスを味わいました。
⑩ヘーゼルナッツ焼き菓子
繋ぎを使わないヘーゼルナッツみがとても強い焼き菓子。冷たいうちに食べねばならない儚い焼き菓子。
ノンアルコールペアリングも今まで頂いたなかでは1番美味しくお料理と合っていた。
シェフは16歳にしてピザを作り始めイタリアに渡り、その後本格的に料理をしようと東京からデンマークの世界的に有名なnomaに行き修行を積んだ。
地元に近い軽井沢に戻ると草刈りなどのバイトを経て今のレストランをたちあげた。
わずか29歳の若さでここまで人を惹きつける料理を作れるシェフは天才なのではとお会いするまで思っていたが、そうではなく料理を常に試行錯誤し成功と失敗を繰り返してコースを作っている話やそのお料理を出す時の説明も実に楽しそうに話しており心からお料理が好きなのだと感じられ、そんな楽しく好きなことをしている人が作るお料理に勝るお料理は無いなと思いました。
次は1年ちょっと後に再訪予定、今からとても楽しみです。
そんな至極のコース、機会があれば是非。