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京都・河原町の一角に佇む「ちりとり鍋 いその」。
その名物、ちりとり鍋コースを目当てに訪れた。
まずは“男気ビール”で乾杯。生中の倍以上という迫力ながら、価格はわずか1.6倍。ジョッキを掲げた瞬間から、この店のサービス精神と遊び心が伝わってくる。
前菜の刺身三種—サーモン、シメサバ、タイ—はいずれも新鮮で、脂ののりと舌触りが見事。
おまかせ逸品は枝豆、ポテトサラダ、ヤングコーンの青さバター。枝豆のほっくりとした甘み、フライドオニオンを散らしたポテサラの香ばしさ、そして青さが引き立てるヤングコーンの優しい甘味。どれも一品料理として完成度が高い。
そして主役の上ホルモン鍋。重厚な四角鉄板に特製ダレを注ぎ、山盛りの野菜とホルモン、その上をコウネ、カルビ、ツラミの赤身肉が覆い尽くす。火が入り、山がゆっくりと崩れゆく様は、まるで旨味の奔流。甘辛のタレが具材を包み込み、肉も野菜もホルモンも一体となって舌を魅了する。
中盤に炙りユッケが登場。柔らかく上品な甘みが口に広がり、鍋の合間の箸休めとして理想的な存在感を放つ。
締めは、旨味を余すことなく吸い込んだうどん、そして焼きめし。タレの滋味を最後の一口まで堪能できる構成に、思わず唸る。
量・味・演出、そのすべてに満ちる満足感。
京都で“肉を楽しむ夜”を過ごすなら、「いその」はぜひ覚えておきたい一軒である。