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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
京都・烏丸御池に佇む『室町和久傳（むろまちわくでん）』
京町家をコンセプトにした造りで、間口が広く開放的なエントランス。
料理長・松本進也氏の料理は、季節感を大切にした、野趣あふれるなかにも繊細な味わい。
日本酒は、和久傳が京都・丹後にある自社の田んぼで完全無農薬のお米から作っているものを厳選。米の品種はイセヒカリ、伊勢神宮にも奉納している御神米。野菜も和久傳グループで契約する畑で作っている。割烹と料亭の良いところを持ち合わせた名店。
京都府北部、現在の京丹後市に1870（明治３）年に料理旅館として創業しました。
初代の和久屋傳右ヱ門と妻の久にちなみ「和久傳」と名付けられ、１９２７（昭和２）年の北丹後震災で全壊しましたが、二代目が４年をかけ再建。約３千坪の敷地に建つ７室のみの風雅な料理旅館として、地元を盛り上げたといわれます。1982（昭和57）年に、京都市東山麓の高台寺に移転し、料亭「高台寺和久傳」として新たにスタートを切ります。
「緒方」の緒方俊郎さん、「木山」の木山義朗さんなど、出身者が開く店の多くが評判の高い人気店となっています。特に、鎌倉の北じまの北嶋さんは地元の料理店に就職後、本格的に料理を勉強したいと、憧れの京都でいくつもの名店を食べ歩いた。その中で京料理の老舗「室町 和久傳」の味に衝撃を受け、その日に「働かせてほしい」とお願いしたという。そのお店なのです。
今日は、夜に訪問。ここは予約をしてくださったご一緒のおかげで、伺うことができました。
【乾杯】
「ペリエ」
【食前茶】
「福茶」
梅干しを入れ、縁起を祝うお茶。
【クエの酒蒸し】
厚みをもたせたクエの酒蒸し。九条ネギをたっぷりと。かつおだしにクエからの出汁が合わさり、得も言われぬ美味しさ。
【ふぐの昆布締め】
ふぐを薄造りにして、煎り酒と。同時に、和歌山紀州の梅、葱、山葵が添えられます。
ふぐは、しっかり昆布の旨味を含んで噛みごたえあり。昆布締めにして１０分なのだそう。梅肉を使い煎り酒が作られることから、良い塩梅という言葉が生まれたのだとか。
【八寸】
お節料理のような盛り合わせ。
「子持ち昆布、車海老、白バイ貝、そら豆、牛蒡、大根の胡麻和え、鴨の松笠、叩き牛蒡、生酢れんこん、おいもと黒豆のカステラ、ヒラメの求肥巻き」
一つ一つ、いずれもかなり凝っていて、総じて、穏やかな味わいで美味。
「鴨の松風」
改めて、松風焼きとは。和菓子の松風のような見た目をした料理の事で、おせち料理としても使われています。ここでは、旨みの濃い鴨のひき肉を使用。
「平目の求肥巻き」
ヒラメに北海道の求肥昆布を使い巻いた一品。ヒラメは塩で水分を抜いて昆布締めにして３日間寝かせた旨味。
【祝い酒】
「青竹酒」
和久傳の自慢のお酒をひとくち。まろやかな旨味に青竹の香りが広がる済んだお酒。飲めない私がすっと受け入れられた魔法のような日本酒でした。
【白味噌のお雑煮】
北海道の牛蒡、大阪の海老芋（富田林ですね）、丸大根、京人参などの根菜に、焼いた丸餅。辛子、菊菜、おかかをたっぷりと。まろやかな白味噌の利点を最大限に活かした京都ならではのお雑煮です。
【もろこのおかき揚げ】
琵琶湖のもろこをおかきをまとわせて、もちっとした食感に。人参の葉とお粥を合わせたとろみのあるソースと。人参の葉とはいえ、青くささは無く澄んだバジルのような瑞々しさが、馴染みます。
【氷見の寒鰤】
今がまさに旬の一番美味しい氷見の寒鰤、ふきのとうに刻んだゆべしを加えた甘味噌と。
脂がのった寒ブリとこっくりした味噌との重層な旨味。
【丹波牛の牛カツ】
旨味の濃い丹波牛をサクッと歯切れの良いカツレツに。肉厚の椎茸“天恵菇てんけいこ”のおかき揚げを添えて。直径7cm以上が「天恵菇」として認められるそうです。りんごの摺りおろしに醤油、お酢を加えたソース。刻んだ菜の花をかけて。
脂の綺麗な身の牛肉に、りんごの酸味が爽やかさを与えます。火入れの良い牛の香ばしい香りと、引き締まっていながらも柔らかな食感、噛むほどに滲み出る旨味が堪りません。
【椀物】
「なめことお豆腐の赤出汁」
お出汁が良いと、味わい深くて美味しいですね。
【香の物】
「白菜の昆布漬」
締めのご飯ものは、4種類。全てお願いしました。
【煮えばな】
つやつやの粒立ちの良い土鍋ごはん。丹後にある和久傳の畑で、綺麗なお水と無農薬栽培で育てられたお米だそう。
【カラスミ餅】
お餅にカラスミを含ませて、網でこんがりと焼いて。カラスミの塩気がアツアツのお餅に合わさる美味しい組み合わせ。焼き立てのお餅はなによりのご馳走。
【白海老玉子とじ丼】
白海老に濃厚な卵“侘助”をお出汁と合わせ、ご飯とともに。たまごの濃厚な味わいを控えめなお出汁が引き立てます。
【蕪おろしうどん】
蕪の摺りおろしをお出汁に合わせて、讃岐うどんに合わせて。大根よりも、滋味深く美味しいとろみが生まれる蕪を使うとのこと。あんかけのように、胃に優しく、体も温まります。
【へしこの茶漬け】
塩に漬けて、さらに、麹に漬けた古代!保存食、へしこ。その塩味を伸ばすように、お出汁を合わせて、ご飯と一緒にいただきます。
【デコポンゼリー】
甘くてフレッシュなデコポンをそのままゼリーに。
【金冠の葛焼き】
金冠に百合根を加え、葛粉で作ったくず餅をこんがりと焼き付けて。焼き立てならではの、美味しさ。
【かのは茶】
和久傳オリジナル。琵琶の葉、レモングラス、アップルミントなどを使い、フルーテイ―でさわやかな仕上がり。これ、持ち帰りたいと思いました。
【お抹茶】
おうすも、温かみのあるお味。
どれも綺麗で丁寧な仕事が感じられ、意外と量はたっぷり。今日は、白味噌を使ったお雑煮など、わかりやすい京料理が出て、すごく楽しめました。
カウンター内に若手がたくさん働いていたのも初々しい感じでベテランの大将を支えながらも、真面目で好感度大です。大将もソムリエさんも気さくで気持ちよく、お客様も肩の力を抜いて楽しんでいらっしゃいました。定期的に伺いたい京都を代表する名店です。