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中トロ
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水だこ
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ガリ
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海老しんじょう
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真牡蠣
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ヒラメ
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鰆
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赤身
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縞鯵
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いくら
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糸水雲
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ミンククジラ炙り
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ズワイガニ
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北寄貝
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秋刀魚
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海老味噌汁
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北紫雲丹
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幸水と日本酒ゼリー
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前回の訪問から半年。再び暖簾をくぐりました。結論から申し上げれば、「前回を凌駕する満足度」。大将の探究心と、北海道という土地のポテンシャルの高さに改めて脱帽です。
悶絶必至の「つまみ」から始まる口福の連鎖
まずは北海道産ふぐとカラスミの力強い旨味のぶつかり合いに驚かされ、仙鳳趾(せんぼうし)の真牡蠣のクリーミーな濃厚さに喉が鳴ります。
特筆すべきは、こちらの看板商品である余市のあん肝。口の中で淡雪のように溶け、雑味一切なしの清らかな脂の甘みが広がります。まさに「看板」の名に恥じぬ逸品。さらに、蝦夷鮑に合わせる鹿部産の青海苔ソースは、磯の香りのレイヤーが何層にも重なり、思わず唸る美味しさでした。
熟成と鮮度、変幻自在の握り
握りは、まさに大将の真骨頂。
• 52日間寝かせた大トロ:これはもう、寿司の概念が変わります。熟成によって凝縮された旨味が、シャリの酸味と一体化して消えていく。この「時間の魔法」を味わうためだけにでも、再訪する価値があります。
• 噴火湾産・12日熟成のヒラメ:寝かせることで引き出された甘みが、白身とは思えない奥行き。
• 地物へのこだわり:十勝広尾の八角や羅臼の青そいなど、北海道ならではの希少なネタが次々と。浜中の蝦夷馬糞ウニは、その鮮やかな色味通り、口いっぱいに広がる甘みが至福でした。
緩急のついた構成に酔いしれる
合間に挟まれる礼文島・たちの(白子)お吸い物は、柚子の香りが凛と立ち、心を解きほぐしてくれます。稚内の海鼠(なまこ)は優しい赤酢の塩梅が見事で、食感の楽しさが良いアクセントに。
最後は甘酒と白餡の最中で。丹波の黒豆が優しく寄り添い、多幸感に包まれたままフィナーレを迎えました。
【総評】
前回よりも更に研ぎ澄まされた印象。素材の良さはもちろんですが、熟成の「攻め」の姿勢と、出汁やソースの「守り」のバランスが完璧です。
次はどの季節に、どんな驚きに出会えるのか。既に次回の予約が待ち遠しくてなりません。ごちそうさまでした。