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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
初めてディナータイムに空席が出ているのをネットで確認し、すかさず予約。大将は京都で最も予約が難しい店として知られる、祇園 さゝ木出身。他のお店でたまたま耳にした情報では、ディナーは秋頃に1年間分の予約をまとめて受け付けるようです。カウンター10席のみで、すぐに埋まってしまうため、なかなかの訪問困難店。オープン当初からお店の存在は知っていましたが、今回やっと訪問の機会を得ることができました。期待はかなり高めです。
夜は18時半の一斉スタート。10分前に到着し入店しました。お店はオープンキッチンの板前割烹スタイルで、調理の工程がどの席からも見えます。量が多いのでしょうか。料理がスタートする前から「少なめで」と言われる方がおられました。食欲旺盛な身としては嬉しい限りです。
はじめに水で満たされた大きなガラス瓶に入れられた琵琶湖の鮎がお客さん全員に披露されます。ガスコンロでは大きな鍋に入れられた油と網に乗った炭が加熱されているのが確認できます。
料理のスタートは冷たい茶碗蒸し。うに、いか、ズッキーニ、煮凝りなどが冷製茶碗蒸しの上に乗っています。混ぜながらいただきます。新鮮な魚介の味と程よい酸味が合わさり、スルスルと入っていきます。
2品目は、先ほどまでガラス瓶の中で元気よく泳いでいた琵琶湖の若鮎。旬を捉えた食材です。若鮎は餅粉を付けて油で揚げてあり、中華風のピリ辛ダレがかけられています。琵琶湖の恵みに感謝しながら、鮎独特のほろ苦さと旨味をじっくり味わいます。
続いて椀物。具材は甘鯛と冬瓜です。甘鯛の上にちょこんと梅肉がのっています。うっすら黄金色に輝くお出汁はほんのりとゆずが香り、繊細かつ上品で、素材の良さを活かす仕立てです。
次は伝助穴子のお造り。大将が金属の箸と手を使って熱せられた備長炭の上に直接穴子を乗せ、皮面に火を入れていきます。火力の強い備長炭でないと上手くいかないそうです。店内は煙でモクモクと充満していきます。塩とわさびか自家製のポン酢でいただきます。冬の時期とは違って脂がさっぱりとしており、塩、ポン酢のどちらとも合います。
伝助穴子を食している途中で、鉄のフライパンで何かが焼かれているのが見えました。その正体は、次に登場した和牛のイチボ。柔らかく仕上がっています。付け合わせは、2年熟成のインカの目覚めのフライドポテトと 新玉ねぎのオーブン焼き。肉じゃがをイメージしているとのことです。和牛のすじでとった出汁で作った少し粘度のあるソースがかけられています。もちろん、合わないわけがありません。
ここでお口直し。焼きとうもろこしのプリンです。味付けは塩のみで、とうもろこしの自然な甘みが引き立っています。フードプロセッサーで攪拌後に裏漉ししているそうで、舌触りがとても良かったです。家庭でもできそうなものですが、中々上手くいかないでしょう。
ご飯物の前の最後の料理は、スチームコンベクションオーブンで酒蒸しされた金目鯛が主役。干し貝柱のスープ、空芯菜、黄ニラとともにひとり用の小さな土鍋に入れられた後、グツグツと熱せられ、全体にとろみを帯びた状態で提供されました。火傷注意の一品でしたが、金目鯛の身はフワッとしています。空芯菜と黄ニラの食感が良いアクセントになり、旨味の強い干し貝柱の餡が全てをまとめています。
ご飯物は、新生姜の炊き込みご飯、釜揚げしらすご飯に壬生菜と大根おろしが入ったもの、白ご飯の中から好きなだけ食べることができました。新生姜の炊き込みご飯、釜揚げしらすご飯を一瞬で平らげ、白ご飯に移行します。白ご飯のお供は数種類用意されています。まずは「龍のたまご」の卵かけご飯。全卵か卵黄のみか選べます。全卵にしました。その後、白ご飯にマグロの中落ち、白ご飯に自家製XO醬、白ご飯に自家製ちりめん山椒、釜揚げしらすご飯にXO醬の順でおかわりをし、計6杯も食べてしまいました。中でも、自家製XO醬はご飯のお供として最高でした。
デザートは2種類の用意。1つ目はココナッツミルクのプリン。マンゴーソースがかけられとさくらんぼが添えられています。ココナッツミルクの濃厚さを感じられる味でした。2つ目はシュークリーム。中には生クリームと黒糖のカスタードが入っており、ちょうどよいサイズ感。最後でも全く重くなく、美味しく食べられました。最後にアイスコーヒーで終了。
コース終了までちょうど2時間ほどでした。お腹はかなり満腹。この後、近くの有名な立ち食い蕎麦店に行く予定でしたが、無理でした。お会計前にお土産として販売されているXO醬をお願いしました。
カウンターの前で調理されるライブ感を楽しめるスタイル。次は何が出てくるんだろうとワクワクします。大将やスタッフの皆さんの気持ち良い接客。魚介もお肉も味わえたコースの構成。高いコストパフォーマンス。旬を捉えた食材。素材の良さを活かす確かな技術。実直な姿勢が料理に表れており、期待を超える満足度でした。姿が見えなくなるまでお見送りしていただき、ありがとうございます。次のチャンスはいつか分かりませんが、是非、季節を変えて再訪したいお店です。