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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
恵比寿駅西口から徒歩4分。
2025年1月にオープンした「天ぷら北川」は、一般的にイメージされる“高温でカラッと揚げる天ぷら”とは、少し異なるアプローチを採る一軒です。
店主は、名店の系譜をなぞるスタイルではなく、天ぷら店を食べ歩く中で得た体験をもとに、ほぼ独学で自身の天ぷらを構築してきた人物。
そのため、料理の構成や火入れ、衣の設計には、従来の天ぷら店とは異なる思想が随所に見られます。
やさしい温度帯で引き出す「香り」と「衣の設計」
天ぷら北川の特徴は、高温で一気に揚げ切るのではなく、やさしい温度帯で火入れを行う点。
メレンゲ状に整えた衣を使い、食材の水分や香りの立ち方に意識を向けた揚げ方が採られています。
衣は主張しすぎず、口に含むとほどけるような設計。
香りの立つ食材と組み合わせることで、食後に余韻として残る風味を意識した構成になっています。
天ぷらの締めに供される「天茶」
コースの締めには、天丼か天茶が供されます。
天茶で使われている出汁には、静岡県産・手火山式焙乾製法で作られた鰹節を使用。
燻香が穏やかで雑味の少ない鰹節の特徴が、天ぷらの後味とぶつかることなく、静かにまとめる役割を果たしています。
派手さはありませんが、店の思想が最も分かりやすく表れる一品と言えるでしょう。
食材の仕入れについて
魚介類の一部は、静岡の名魚屋「サスエ前田魚店」からの仕入れもありますが、同店一択ではなく、食材ごとに仕入れ先を使い分けている点も特徴です。
特定のブランドに寄せるのではなく、その時々の状態や料理構成に応じて選択している印象を受けます。
空間と設え
新築ビル内に構えた店内は、天井に換気扇を設けない設計のため、油の匂いがこもりにくく、スタイリッシュで静かなカウンター空間。
カウンター9席のみの構成で、料理と向き合う時間を大切にした設えです。
総評
天ぷら北川は、
・王道の天ぷらを求める人
・明確な「高級感」や分かりやすい満足感を期待する人
にとっては、好みが分かれる可能性があります。
一方で、
・天ぷらという料理の解釈の幅に興味がある
・火入れや衣の設計思想を体験として捉えたい
という方には、一度向き合ってみる価値のある一軒です。