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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
麻布十番「酉囃子」へ。焼鳥の枠に収まりきらない、少量多皿で組み立てる“焼鳥会席”のような感覚がこの店の面白さだと思う。コースは季節で変わり、予約は一斉スタートのスタイル。 
序盤から印象に残ったのは、ささみの湯引き。ほうれん草のおひたしに、一番搾りのごま油をきかせた輪郭が綺麗で、これからの料理の数々に安心する入口。そこから比内地鶏やほろほろ鳥がリズムよく続き、合間に翡翠豆腐（たらのめ／そらまめを葛で練って揚げ焼き）など、串だけで押し切らない“料理の厚み”が差し込まれる。
串で好きだったのは、まずふりそで。脂の甘みがありつつ、皮がパリッとしていて、焼きの説得力が強い。手羽先×ひめレモンの合わせも良く、脂を軽くしてくれるから後半に向けてテンポが落ちない。
さらに、淡路の玉ねぎを薪でゆっくり火入れした一皿が印象的で、焼鳥のコースの途中に“薪の甘さ”が入るのが気持ちよかった。
個人的に刺さったのは、香りの使い方。
砂肝（鹿児島・コクオウ）×和歌山のぶどう山椒で、ただ強くするんじゃなく、余韻を伸ばす方向に振ってくる。鴨の胸肉を九条ネギと合わせ、くろもじで燻す一皿も、香りが主張しすぎず上品に残って、グラスが自然に進む。
後半は、口直しの酢の物（手羽元からのだし、山菜）で一度整えてから、お稲荷さん（鳥ぶし／胸肉／せり）、安納小金の焼き芋、レバー（比内地鶏をタレに何度もくぐらせる）と、締めに向けて“濃→甘→濃”の緩急が上手い。
締めのにゅうめん（比内地鶏のコンソメ＋鳥ぶし）が、最後にちゃんと身体を温めてくれて、竹炭のチーズケーキで静かに着地。
串の上手さは当然として、コース全体の設計が上手い。焼鳥を食べに来たというより、焼鳥でコース料理を体験した感覚が残りました。