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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
恵比寿の古城で味わう「春のポシェ」と、ハチワレTシャツを隠した僕の贅沢な食卓
恵比寿ガーデンプレイスの奥にそびえ立つ、あの巨大な石造りの城。見上げるたびに「フレンチってのは扉が重いほど財布が軽くなるんだよな」なんて、どうでもいい物理法則を考えてしまう。
今日はジャケットを着て、背筋を伸ばしてやってきた。実はシャツの下に「ハチワレ」のTシャツを着ているんだけど、そんな遊び心はこの重厚な扉の向こうでは僕だけの秘密だ。
ロブション。その名前を聞くだけで胃袋が正座するような場所だけど、一階の「ラ ターブル」は、どこか軽やかな空気が流れている。
✅実食レポート
✨天使の海老のカルパッチョ
「天使の海老」は世界最高品質の称号「Qualisud（クオリサッド）」認定を受けたニューカレドニア産の超エリート。汚れを知らない海で育ち、一切の添加物を許さないというその潔さが、この皿の品格を決めている。
ねっとりとした海老の甘みに、柑橘を効かせたヴィネグレットの酸味がピリリと走る。ブランドの看板に胡坐をかかないロブションの仕事。青けしの実のプチプチした食感と香ばしさが重なって、口の中がパッと華やぐ。魯山人が見たら、気難しく頷きながらも「いい器だ」なんて言いそうな、そんな完成された一皿。
✨ホワイトアスパラのポシェと蛍烏賊のムースリーヌソース
今回の主役。「ポシェ」というのは、ポルシェのことじゃない。沸騰させない絶妙な温度で、素材を優しく煮る技法のこと。
届いたアスパラは、驚くほどしっとりとしていて、瑞々しい。噛んだ瞬間にジュワッと溢れるエキスの甘さは、この丁寧な火入れがあってこそ。
ソースは蛍烏賊の旨みが溶け込んだムースリーヌ。バターの濃厚なコクに空気をたっぷり含ませて、驚くほど滑らかに仕上げてある。これを「ドレッシング」なんて言葉で片付けるのは失礼だ。バターという名の深淵に、春の香りを閉じ込めたような、ロブションらしい緻密な仕事を感じる。
ここで、ソムリエが持ってきたワインリストに圧倒された。最近はどこもiPadでスマートに選ばせるけれど、ここは違う。広辞苑かと思うような、暴力的な重みのある冊子。腱鞘炎になりそうなこの「紙の重み」こそが、数万本のボトルの歴史を預かるシャトーの矜持なんだろう。
✨魚介類と手羽先のソテーを乗せたリゾット
メインはパエリア仕立てのリゾット。サフランの鮮やかな黄色に、海の幸と山の幸が共演している。ランチでここまで手間をかけられたものを出されると、僕ら凡人はただ無言でスプーンを進めるしかない。
✨キャラメリゼしたブラック・コッド
銀鱈の身が、熱でほどける寸前の絶妙な柔らかさ。表面のキャラメリゼが持つほろ苦さと、添えられた筍や菜の花の春の苦みが、口の中で静かに響き合う。これはもう、春という季節の移ろいをそのまま皿に写し取ったような、見事なミステリーだった。
✅総評
二階のガストロノミーが「一言も私語が許されない緊張の試験会場」だとしたら、一階のここは「テストが終わった後の、晴れやかな放課後」のような心地よさがある。
ミシュランの星がどうとか、そんな飾りはどうでもいい。大切なのは、一皿の裏側にある膨大な計算を、客には「カジュアルな楽しさ」として提供する美学だ。
紫を基調としたシックな空間で、スタッフたちの流れるようなサービスに身を委ねる。胃袋だけでなく、知性まで心地よく満たされる場所。
帰り道、恵比寿の風に吹かれながら、僕は確信した。たまにはジャケットを着て、ハチワレのTシャツを隠しながら、こんな最高に「無駄」で「贅沢」な時間を過ごすことが、大人には必要なんだ。
✍️食後の一句
春風や ポシェの素肌の 艶めきて
アスパラのあの瑞々しい火入れ、まるできめ細かな「素肌」のようだなと思って詠みました。ソースを纏った姿は、春という季節そのものが持つ色気を感じさせますね。あなたもこの一皿を前にしたら、きっとその艶やかさに目を奪われるはずです。
✍️攻略メモ
名物： 素材を活かしたポシェ／目移りするワゴンデザート
人気： 一ヶ月前からの予約推奨／記念日利用多し
立地： 恵比寿ガーデンプレイスの奥／城のような外観
客層： 上品なカップル／落ち着いた大人の空間
ドレスコード： 男性はジャケット着用
映え： 料理の色彩感覚はまさに芸術
注文： ランチコースが非常に高コスパ
雰囲気： 豪華だがガストロノミーよりはリラックス
注意： ワインリストの厚さに驚かないこと
サービス： さすがロブション
☝️良い点
素材の生命力を最大限に引き出す圧倒的な技術
恵比寿のシャトーという非日常を味わえる空間
格式高いがスタッフの対応が温かく意外にもリラックス
⚠️気になる点
ドレスコードあり／ラフな格好で行くと気後れする
ワインリストが非常に豊富／比例して価格も相応
週末の予約は争奪戦／余裕を持つこと
☺️タグ遊び
#恵比寿の古城
#ロブションの食卓
#春のアスパラポシェ
#ハチワレを隠したドレスアップ
#ミシュランの贅沢
#摩天楼一郎味覚詩行