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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
新大久保、雑居ビルの深淵で「肉の骨」を啜る午後
平日の午後3時、新大久保。この街は、もはや日本のパスポートでは入れない特区のような趣がある。行き交う人々の８割以上が東南アジア系の若者たちで、日本語はかろうじて標識に残るのみ。一棟がまるごと向こう側の店、ってのが軒を連ね、アジアの熱気とスパイスの匂いに占拠されている。
改札から徒歩30秒。店内に入ると、先客はわずか1名。午後の静謐がそこにはあった。考えてみれば、日本人は「集団の調和」という名の見えない糸で縛られ、一斉に入店し、一斉に咀嚼し、一斉に店を出るというマスゲームのような「一斉行動」の群れをなす。
だが、国外に出れば事情が一変する。彼らは群れないのではない。「個」を尊重した結果、自然とバラバラになるのだ。そんなことを思い出しながら、私はこの貸切状態の贅沢を噛み締めることにした。
✅実食レポート
✨スペアリブ肉骨茶セット 1,580円 + 豚ガツトッピング 300円 + 生ビール（中） 450円
まずはビール450円。この新大久保という「異界」の物価は、時に驚くほど良心的だ。NYならチップだけで消えてしまう額である。
運ばれてきたクレイポットは、グラグラと煮え立っている。その表面を、青々としたレタスがぴっちりと蓋をしている。初見の私は驚いた。だが、これこそがマレーシア・クラン（Klang）の矜持ということらしい。レタスの蓋は蒸気を閉じ込め、スープの香りを肉の深部へと押し戻す、極めて合理的な「装置」なのだという。レタスの蓋をかき分けると、中から「肉骨」、すなわち骨付きスペアリブが3本と、山盛りの「豚ガツ」堂々と姿を現した。
ここで少し、この料理の出自を反芻してみよう。
19世紀、マレー半島の港で働いていた苦力（労働者）たちが、安く手に入る骨の周りの肉を、故郷の漢方で煮込んだのが始まり。つまりこれは「生きるためのスープ」なのだ。
「茶」と名が付くが、茶葉は入っていない。当時の店主の名前に由来するという説が有力だが、要は「スタミナドリンク」の「鍋」バージョンと思えばいい。
食べ方にはコツがある。
客が調味料をコネコネと調合する「錬金術」を楽しむ店も多いが、ここ違う。店主が「これが黄金比だ」とばかりに調合済みのタレを差し出してくる。我々はただ、その完成された意思に従い、肉をダイブさせればいい。肉骨初心者にはこの方がありがたい。
セットに付いてくる油条（ヨウティアオ）という揚げパンは、迷わずスープの深淵に沈める。スープを限界まで吸い込んだそれは、もはやパンではなく「旨味のスポンジ」となる。
さらに、鶏油などで香り付けされた油飯（ライス）。これに最後の一滴までスープをぶっかけるのが、この劇の正しい終演（フィナーレ）である。
完食。一滴も残さず平らげた。満足である。肉骨茶の具材は実にたくさんある。人気の「豚バラ肉骨茶」を楽しみに、再訪したい。
✅総評
現在、東京で「肉骨茶」を供する店は、専門店からアジア料理店まで含めても、せいぜい30店舗程度だろうか。しかもその多くは、シンガポール式の胡椒が効いた「白バク」だ。
しかし、この『南洋叔叔肉骨茶』が守り抜くのは、漢方のコクが五臓六腑に染み渡るマレーシア式の「黒バク」である。
NY帰りの私には、この「異質なもの」が混ざり合い、しかし互いに干渉しない静かな空間が、たまらなく愛おしい。
日本の同調圧力に息が詰まったら、新大久保の雑踏に酔い、このビルへ駆け込むといい。そこには、骨と、肉と、魂を浄化する黒いスープが待っている。
✍️食後の一句
薬喰（くすりぐい） 骨に残りし 寒（かん）の午後
19世紀にマレーシアの港町へ渡った中国の労働者たちが、安価な骨付き肉を故郷の生薬で煮込み、過酷な労働に耐える「飲む点滴」としたのがバクテーの始まりです。
この歴史は、かつての日本で冬の滋養強壮として密かに肉を食した「薬喰」の文化に驚くほど重なります。
この黒いスープと対峙すれば、あなたもきっと異国の香気に神秘を見出しつつ、骨に齧り付く野生味に情趣を感じ取るに違いありません。
命を繋ぐ「薬」として昇華させた、名もなき労働者たちの知恵。その重層的な歴史を、熱狂的なクレイポットの湯気の中に透かし見る……そんな風景を想像して頂ければ幸いです。
✍️攻略メモ
名物：スペアリブ肉骨茶
人気：15時頃は空席が多い自分時間
立地：新大久保駅から徒歩約2分／多国籍ビル地下
客層：東南アジア系の方も多く現地感溢れる
提供：クレイポットは激熱で供されるので注意
映え：レタスが蓋をするクレイポットの迫力
注文：メニュー表から口頭注文
混雑：ランチタイムは混雑が予想される
注意：漢方の香りが服に移るかも
動線：階段を下るとどんどんマレーシアに近づく
☝️良い点
本場クランの味を忠実に再現した濃厚な黒スープ
生ビールが450円という非常に良心的な価格設定
セットの油飯と油条のバランスが完璧
⚠️気になる点
初めての人には漢方の香りが薬っぽく感じるかも
地下に続くディープな入口が入りにくい雰囲気
混雑時は提供まで少し時間がかかる場合がある
☺️タグ遊び
#新大久保マレーシア飯
#南洋叔叔肉骨茶の衝撃
#クラン式黒バクテー
#レタスの蓋を剥ぐ午後
#骨付き肉のスタミナスープ
#摩天楼一郎味覚詩行