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東長崎の閑静な住宅街に、東京の蕎麦シーンを語る上で欠かせない一軒がある。
都内の蕎麦屋で食べログの点数が一番高く、
ミシュランのビブグルマンや「食べログ そば 百名店」、The Tabelog Award Bronzeといった数々の賞を受賞している名店。
じゆうさんの凄みは、まず蕎麦前(酒肴)に現れます。
「そばがき」は、箸で持ち上がる重量感がありながら、口解けは淡雪のようで、穀物の甘みがダイレクトに脳を揺さぶり、すかさず「熱燗」を流し込みたくなる。
注文ごとに銅鍋で焼かれる「玉子焼き」も、出汁を湛えたフルフルとした食感で、まさに職人技の結晶!
そして今回の主役、季節限定の「ぞろりこ蕎麦」。
これは『江戸蕎麦百珍』という、江戸時代に出版された「変わり種蕎麦」のレシピ本(古文書)に記されていたメニューを、店主が現代風に再構築した逸品らしい。
店主はかねてより「従来の鴨南蛮」に対して、「煮込むと肉が硬くなる」「鴨の味が強すぎて蕎麦が負ける」という考えを持っていたそうで、
その解決策として、この江戸の知恵を応用。
叩いた鴨肉(ミンチ)、大和芋、そしてあらかじめツユに煮出した「蕎麦の実(蕎麦米)」を合わせるという手法に辿り着き、このメニューに至ったらしい。
一口啜ると、その計算され尽くしたバランスは完璧で、
鴨の脂とコクはしっかりあるのに、肉は柔らかく、ツユに溶け込んだ蕎麦の実がプチプチと弾け、穀物の甘みを増幅させる。
師匠である名店「竹やぶ」の美学と技術を受け継ぎながら、
そこに留まることなく、過去の文献を紐解き、「なぜそうするのか?」を問い続け、さらなる高みへと昇華させたお店で、
蕎麦という料理の深淵を覗きたい方は、ぜひ足を運んでみる価値がある一軒。
「青は藍より出でて、藍より青し」という諺がぴったりのお店だった。