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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
福岡・高宮に誕生した「船越」。初訪問で強烈に感じたのは、「あ、この店は福岡鮨シーンの流れを変える一軒になるな」という確信でした。大将は33歳という若さながら、その背景には石川県・金沢の超名店『片折』での研鑽、そして福岡を代表する名店『菊鮨』での修業という、鮨好きなら誰もが唸る経歴がしっかりと刻まれている。両店で培われる“引き算の美学”と“九州の地魚の生かし方”が、大将の手の中で見事に融合していた。
まず惚れ込んだのは、大将の佇まい。緊張感を与えない柔らかな物腰、会話の間合いの取り方が抜群で、初訪問でも肩肘張らず自然体でいられる。料理はもちろん一級品だが、やはり鮨屋は“人”で完成するという事実を改めて感じさせてくれる。年齢が近いこともあり、会話が非常に楽しく、料理の印象まで良い方向に立ち上がってくる。
つまみは器の美しさと温度設計が際立ち、静かに心を掴まれる。派手さではなく、素材の声を最大限に引き出す“丁寧な手数”が随所に宿っている。片折譲りの研ぎ澄まされた余白の作り方(行ったことないけど笑)と、菊鮨で磨かれた九州らしい旨味の引き出し方。その二つが高宮の一軒家で見事に同居しているのだから、どう考えても恐ろしい店ができてしまった。
握りがまた素晴らしい。まずシャリがいい。酢の角を感じさせず、ほんのり温かく、ほろりとほどける。白身の包丁仕事は繊細で、海老の火入れは完璧。脂をまとったネタは“重たさ”ではなく“香りの余韻”で食べさせるタイプ。特に赤むつの焼きの入り方、皮目の香ばしさ、脂の抜き方は若手の域を超えている。コース終盤に「追加どうされますか？」と聞かれ、結果として追加可能なもの全て(10貫ほど)お願いしたが、どの一貫も雑味のないクリアな仕事で、追加した自分を褒めたくなるほど満足度が高かった。
店内は静謐さがありつつ温かく、余計な緊張を与えない空気が流れている。若い大将の鮨屋にありがちな“勢いだけの店”ではなく、技術と空気感の両方が成熟しつつある稀有な存在。
福岡にまた、胸を張って人を連れていける鮨店が生まれた。味・空間・人、どれをとっても大満足。間違いなく再訪確定のお店です。