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下北沢の喧騒から少し距離を置いた場所に佇む「meso」
扉を開けた瞬間、空気が静かに切り替わるのを感じる、大人のためのモダンフレンチ。
フレンチを軸にしながらも、シドニーで培ったモダンオーストラリアの発想を背景に、発酵・スパイス・出汁を巧みに重ねた料理は、軽やかさと奥行きを併せ持つ構成。流行に寄りかかることなく、料理としての芯を丁寧に描いている点が印象的です。
この日のコースでは、春菊の出汁と椎茸の旨味が寄り添う焼き牡蠣に始まり、貝とトマトのエキスにキャビアを重ねた真鯛、ラディッキオのほろ苦さを活かした一皿、寒ブリのロースト、そしてカンガルーミドルフィレの煮込みまで、素材の個性を引き出す繊細な設計が続きます。
デザートは、生クリームを使わないオリーブオイルの塩チーズケーキアイス。温度と時間で表情を変える構成が美しく、コースの締めくくりにふさわしい一品でした。
エトナ火山由来のミネラルを感じるワインや、エノキドバレーのシャルドネを中心とした4杯のペアリングも秀逸で、料理全体の輪郭を鮮明にしてくれます。
下北沢で、これほど穏やかに料理と向き合える場所は貴重。
日常と特別の間を、心地よく行き来できるレストランです。