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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
京都・御幸町にひっそりと佇む「田がわ」。落ち着いた空間に足を踏み入れた瞬間から、料理人の美意識と季節への敬意が伝わってくる。
この日の一献は玉露から始まる。凛とした香りが心を整え、先付けの白味噌仕立てへ。淀大根のやわらかな甘み、菊菜のほろ苦さ、胡麻のコクが調和し、冬の京都を穏やかに表現している。
造りは大分県赤貝とハリイカ。辛味大根、漬け長芋、チラシ昆布、煎り酒ジュレと重ねることで素材の個性を立体的に引き出す。続く蕪蒸しには愛媛の甘鯛。ふわりとした蕪の中に旨味が凝縮し、鱗の唐揚げが食感のアクセントとなる。
八寸は節分をテーマに。お稲荷さん、福升の豆、北海道鰯の梅生姜炊き、京野菜のからしびたし。季節行事を料理で語る構成が心憎い。福井県越前蟹のコロッケには濃厚な蟹味噌ソース。三重のアオサ佃煮と北海道産生ウニを合わせた蕎麦は、磯の香りが鮮烈だ。
瀬戸内のマナガツオ味噌漬け、岩手のホワイトアスパラと帆立の酢の物、そしてフグみかわの白子鍋。全国の旬を一椀ごとに巡るような構成に、料理人の探究心を感じる。
締めは鶯豆ごはんと九条葱と地鶏のご飯。甘味には愛媛のかんぺいを使ったフルーツ大福。最後まで余韻が美しい。
季節、土地、物語。すべてを一皿に込める京懐石の真髄を体感できる一軒。静かに、深く、記憶に残る時間だった。