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道玄坂の雑踏から、ほんの数分。
気づけば音が一段落ち、空気が静かになる。その変化自体が、もう京之介の前菜のようだ。
個室に腰を下ろして、京之介コース(10,500円)。
派手な説明や過剰な演出はない。ただ、運ばれてくる皿がすべて「分かっている」顔をしている。
肉はどれも鮮度が明確。
焼きすぎる必要がない、むしろレアで完成する設計。
名物の京之介焼きは、大判ロースを出汁とろろに絡めることで、脂の輪郭が丸くなり、旨みだけが残る。重くならないのがいい。
特筆したいのは牛タン。
歯を入れた瞬間の弾力と、その後にほどける旨みのバランスが見事で、この一皿だけでも再訪理由になる。
コース全体を通して、一品一品が急がない。
炙りユッケ、ホルモン、どれも「ちゃんと順番を考えて出されている」安心感がある。
そして締めの冷麺。ここで初めて、体が完全にほどける。
空間は大人向けだが、気取らせない。
個室でこの内容、この価格。正直、かなり良心的だと思う。
山崎ハイボールのキレが、焼肉の余韻を綺麗に切ってくれるのも好印象。
終始丁寧でテンポの良い接客にも好印象。
派手さではなく、積み重ねで信頼を取る焼肉店。
渋谷で静かに、ちゃんと美味しい肉を食べたい夜に、思い出す店になる。