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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
いつのことだっただろう。以前のお店に伺った際、帰り際に鳥のジビエの羽根をいただいた。お料理のおいしさは当然ながら、その羽根が印象的で、もう一度お伺いしたいなと思っていたら休業のお知らせ。今年になって南青山で再開されたと聞き、やっと念願が叶って訪れることができた。
mærgeは、Merge （融合・英）とMarge（余白・仏）を合わせた造語だそうだ。名も無い食材をも舞台に上げる。そんな心を伝えている。
お店は表通りからやや奥まった場所にあり、重厚感のある扉の向こうは大地の息吹を感じるような、温かだけどどこか計り知れないミステリアスな空間が広がる。今回予約した個室は、テーブルや壁面に「木」のエレメントが散りばめられ、懐かしい異空間に抱かれているような心地になる。
お料理は、そんな大地の底力を伝える食材ばかりで構成される。一口毎に、食材の囁きが聞こえるようだ。
例えば、メインコースで選んだスコットランドの雷鳥。この時期しか出回らないジビエで、都内でもジビエの得意なフランス料理店ではそこそこ出回るし、どこでもそこそこおいしい。でも、こちらの雷鳥の調理の密度はちょっと違う。胸肉、ささみ、モモ、頭まで、それぞれがきっちり一番おいしいタイミングと温度で完璧な仕上がり。とろけるようなササミ、濃厚でねっとりと絡みつくような胸肉。どうやって食材とここまで会話をするのか、と思わず溜息が出るほど。
真鯛のヴァンブランソース。たくさんの驚きで織りなされるコースの、メインコースの前。定番の味わいにほっと一息つける瞬間だ。でも、一見したところ普通のソースなのに、実に複雑な旨味で魅了してくる。松茸の華やかな香りに心を奪われつつ、本当はそのソースが主役。親しみのなかに潜むその奥深い味わいに、虜になってしまう。
他にも例えば、野生の茸のスープには、猪の丸い旨味をまとわせて。一匙ずつ口に運ぶ毎に、山の空気を吸い込んでいるような。旨さは当たり前で、それだけでは留まらない。一皿ごとに、食材を通して世界が見えてくるようなお皿が続く。
私たちは普段、珍味だとか高級食材だとかという括りで食材を頭のなかの「棚」に並べているみたいだ。でも、そうやって棚に並んだ食材は、「高級」とかいう枠に行儀よく座っていて、どこから来たのかも忘れてしまいそうになる。
でも、ここmærgeでは、一つの旅ができるーー高級だとか、オーガニックだとかというラベルを貼られる前の、食材の鼓動を感じる旅。
ぜひあなたも、その扉を開けてみてほしい。