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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
銀座の一角に静かに佇む「炎田むら」。“香り”を料理の一部として成立させている、割烹だと感じました。炭や薪、藁の香り。その移ろいをまとった料理が次々に現れ、ただの食事が体験へと変わっていく。カウンター越しに感じるライブ感も格別で、大将との会話を楽しみながら、旬の食材が目の前で最適な温度・最適な香りに仕上げられていく時間は圧巻。まさに五感で味わうコースでした。
まず最初の先付二種から心を奪われます。
香箱蟹の春巻きは、メスガニ解禁直後ならではの濃い旨みが詰まり、脚の甘みと生姜酢の香りがふわりと広がりまふ。季節の息遣いをそのまま閉じ込めた一皿でした。
続く「河豚と雲子のフライ」は、揚げたあと薪の香りをまとわせるという独自の手法。柚木と薪の香ばしい香りが、ふぐの軽やかな身と濃厚な白子を包み込み、鼻腔に抜けるたびに幸福感が増していきます。
「鮪の薪炙り」は、漬け鮪を薪でさっと炙り、上にはいぶりがっこ。脂の甘みと薪のスモーク香、いぶりがっこの香ばしさが重なり合い、香りのレイヤーが何段にも広がります。
金目鯛は炭で直接焼き目をつけ、皮目はカリッと香ばしく、そこに藁のスモーキーさが重なって唯一無二。下の刻み白菜とポン酢で食べるとさっぱりとしてまた一段と美味しくなりました。
お椀はすっぽんと葱、さらに海老蒸し餃子を合わせた一品。中華の技法を取り入れたメニューとのことで、すっぽんのしんじょうの中にはジュレが忍び、カツオ出汁に深いコクを与えています。和と中華の境界が心地よく溶け合う味わいです。
焼き物の甘鯛はマツカサ焼きで、皮のパリッと立った食感が見事。蕪の優しい甘みと、ふわりと香るオリーブオイルと胡椒が上品に合わさります。
雲丹と自然薯の一皿はミネラル感あふれる滋味深い味わいでした。しじみスープと鰹出汁で自然薯を伸ばし、卵黄の代わりに雲丹を使用するという贅沢さ。
メインの延寿牛サーロインは、枝に刺さった状態で一口で頬張るスタイルで一切れ。この演出は面白かったです。初めて食べる延寿牛は、薪のほどよい低温でしっとり火入れされたのもあり柔らかく絶品です。“赤牛ならでは” の香りと旨みを、最も美味しい状態で差し出してくれます。百合根の炙りマッシュ、柚子胡椒味噌、バルサミコ生姜醤油、蓮根・根セロリ・銀杏と、付け合わせも香りの個性が際立ち最高のお肉でした。
食事は雪椿の釜炊きご飯。おばんざい二種、留椀、香の物が優しい締め。とくに菊芋の味噌漬けや、柑橘ゲンコウを合わせたカマスの爽やかさが印象的でした。牛タンのだいとくじ煮込みは、まるでシチューのようなコクなのに、バター不使用のため軽やかで、最後まで食べ進められたのが驚きでした。
水菓子は季節のかき氷。焼き芋りんごシナモン、宇治金時、ラフランス杏仁から選べ、私はラフランス杏仁を選択しました。最初からデザートまで大満足、本当に素敵なお店でした。
炭・薪・藁の香りを「調味料」として巧みに使いこなし、旬を最高の形で味わわせてくれます。
大将との会話も温かく、料理の背景や素材の旬を教えてくれることでさらに味わいが深まります。特別な時間を過ごしたい人に、心からおすすめしたい一軒でした。
ごちそうさまでした！