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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
今夜は山玄茶さんでの夕食。今回の京都旅行で一番楽しみにしていた食事です。
祇園花見小路通から一つ入った狭い小路の先にひっそりと掛けられた暖簾が目印になっていて、暖簾をくぐるとお弟子さんが温かく迎えてくました。石畳の路地の先にある玄関まで案内され、靴を脱いで店内へ。
檜のカウンターが出迎えてくれて、店内は京都らしい落ち着いた雰囲気があり心が和みます。カウンターの右奥にはガラス越しに手入れされた坪庭を望むことができます。派手さはないけど、この設えが暑い夏の日も涼やかに感じさせてくれます。
2階にはこの坪庭を見下ろすことができる個室もあるそうです。
料理長の増田信彦氏が柔和な笑顔で挨拶してくれます。氏は滋賀県出身で滋賀の名料亭「招福樓」で20年在籍後に山玄茶を開業し、2007年から京都祇園に移転したようです。カウンター向かいの棚には増田氏の人形が鎮座しています。
まずはほうじ茶でスタートです。
最初は生ビールをいただきました。
蓮の葉の皿に蓴菜・雲丹 季節に合わせた涼やかなお皿。
お椀の茄子・帆立の真薯は丁寧に仕事されていて滋味深い味わいで感動ものの美味しさ。これぞ日本料理の真髄ではないかと感嘆してしまいます。
次はお造り 蛸・車海老・烏賊・鮪・鯛など そして、マスカルポーネ醤油を使用しているところに伝統に胡座をかくことがない増田氏の料理に対する探求心が見えます。お造りの味を生かす工夫がなされていてるところが素晴らしいですね。
揚げた車海老の頭も美味しい。
ここでコールドミフクという滋賀のお酒をいただきました。
次は待ちに待った鱧 増田氏の骨切りの見事な包丁さばきを見ただけに期待も高まります。
そして、お皿は彩りも鮮やかな予想を裏切る仕立てになっています。味はもちろん言うことなしの美味。
次は穴子 柔らかく口の中で軽く溶けてしまう。
キンキ ニンジンのピューレを合わせているところが斬新。火入れも完璧でパリっとした皮と身の弾力とのコントラストも見事という他ない。
八寸の玉子焼の美味しさもさることながら、蛸の柔らか煮がもっと良かったです。食べた瞬間にその美味しさに涙が滲んでしまいました。この美味しさに感動するお客さんが多いとのこと。
牛の握り 唯一の肉料理です。
お造りで余った鯛の握りもサービスで出てきました。
ここで日本酒は松の司をいただきました。
屋形船に見立てた演出で鮎の塩焼きが登場。大きく口を開けた鮎そのものが素晴らしい上に焼きや塩加減も完璧です。
そして、ついに登場。氷の見事な器で出てくる氷見うどん。手作りの美しいこの器で供される氷見うどんの美味しいことといったらありません。出汁まで飲み干して身体の芯から涼やかになります。
蟹の真薯は生姜と合わせてあり、この温かみのある優しい真薯の味に涙が出そうになるほど感動しました。
最後は土鍋ごはん、赤だし、香の物
鯛でんぷとちりめん山椒で味わった後は卵かけご飯で締めました。この卵かけご飯が堪らなく美味しかったです。
桃とマスカットのゼリー寄せ。
圧巻は日本一柔らかい水羊羹。料理長の丁寧な仕事は水菓子にまで及びます。まさに日本一柔い水羊羹で口の中で秒で溶ける優しい瑞々しい最高の水羊羹でした。
終始、料理長である増田氏は穏やかな笑顔で分け隔てのない対応をしてくださりました。その柔らかい物腰と楽しい会話のお陰で美味しい料理が何倍も美味しく感じました。
そして料理はひとつひとつ本当に丁寧な仕事がされていて、全てのお皿が美味しくて感動の連続でした。
一期一会の精神がおもてなしや料理に現れている素晴らしいお店だと思います。
次は冬に訪れて、また感動の料理を味わいたいです。
ご馳走さまでした。