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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
六本木の舗道を濡らす雨粒は、意志を持ったように一定のリズムで降り続いていた。6月も終盤、日暮れとともに街は蒸した空気に包まれ、傘越しに滲むネオンがまるで水面のように揺れている。忘れかけていた梅雨の存在が、突然背中を叩いてきた。
その扉の先に、焼肉の常識を覆す異空間が広がっているとは、誰が想像しただろうか。
西麻布の地下にひっそりと佇む「焼肉 X（TEN）」は、完全予約・個室制のガストロノミー。
12.4℃という融点の低い脂が舌の温度で溶ける、月に10頭程しか出回らない但馬牛は但馬玄など、選び抜かれた命が、目の前で焼き手により芸術へと昇華される。照明は控えめに、空気は澄み、音までもが料理の引き立て役となる。ワインは“TIRPSE”監修、香りと熱と物語が交差する一夜の舞台。
接待でも記念日でもなく、ただ己の感性を満たすために、行く価値がある場所だった。
本日は以下のコースをいただいた。
●SORA~宙~コース＋ワインペアリング
◇但馬玄コンソメスープ
一口含めば、静寂が広がる。テールやすね肉、牛骨を55時間かけて煮込んだ、但馬玄の骨太な旨みが、澄みきった琥珀色のスープに凝縮され、舌の上でそっと解ける。余計な装飾は排され、ただ素材の本質だけが、静かに語りかけてくるようだ。
◇自家製キムチと旬野菜の小鉢
前菜と呼ぶにはあまりに洒脱な、小粋な五重奏。和えたての白菜キムチはシャキリと弾け、トマトとパイナップルは果実の艶やかさでワインに寄り添う。茎わかめは千鳥酢で涼やかに、茶豆はアンチョビとニンニクで驚きの余韻を残す。
◇但馬玄ユッケ
とろける但馬玄に、甘めのタレと卵黄が絡む瞬間、舌が静かに歓喜する。搾りたてのごま油が香りの輪郭を際立たせ、横にはキャビアとレモン香るサワークリームの宝箱。塩味と酸味が重奏し、贅沢の定義が静かに塗り替えられる。
◇但馬牛タン
タンの中でも最上とされるタン元を薄く引き、さっと炙れば、香ばしさと脂の甘みが舌の上でほどける。レモン塩がその輪郭を引き締め、余計な言葉を要しない完成形となる。
◇但馬牛タンシタ
しっとりとしたタンシタの濃厚な旨みに、白美人ねぎの清涼な香りがそっと寄り添う。肉の深みに軽やかな余白を添えるような絶妙の組み合わせに、箸先が思わず次を欲する。
◇但馬牛タン厚切り
先程のタン元を贅沢に厚切りで。噛むほどにあふれる脂の甘みと、芯に宿る力強い歯ごたえ。その一枚は、焼肉の域を超えた“肉の芸術”と呼ぶにふさわしい。
◇夏野菜サラダ
色とりどりの夏野菜が、チョレギドレッシングのコクと赤酢のやわらかな酸味に包まれて踊る。瑞々しさと香ばしさの調和が、肉の合間に爽やかな余韻を差し込んでくる。
◇但馬玄ハンバーグサンド
齧りつくと、外はカリッと香ばしく、中からは但馬牛ヒレ肉の旨みがじゅわりと溢れる。ハンバーグという言葉では足りない、密度のある肉の存在感と上品な脂。艶やかなソースがそれを包み込み、カリッと焼かれたパンが余韻をまとめあげる。ラグジュアリーとストリートの境界線上に立つ、唯一無二のサンドだ。
◇但馬玄レバー
舌に触れた瞬間、とろけるように消える但馬玄のレバー。濃厚ながら癖はなく、驚くほどなめらか。そこに寄り添うのは、甘口ワインの柔らかな酸と果実味。まるで熟れた果実にそっとナイフを入れたような、静かで贅沢な余韻が広がる。
◇但馬牛タン しゃぶしゃぶ
薄紅に透けるタンを出汁に泳がせ、ふわりと火が入った瞬間、香りが立つ。ネギの清涼感とともに頬張れば、出汁の旨みが舌にじんわり染み渡る。そこに重ねる赤ワイン、サヴィニー・レ・ボーヌ1erクリュ・ラヴィエールの繊細な酸が、肉の甘みを引き立て、余韻は静かに、深く。
◇ヒレ
歯が吸い込まれるように入るヒレ肉は、しっとりときめ細やか。塩の加減が見事で、肉の甘みと旨みを過不足なく引き出している。まさに、静かに語る上質。
◇神戸牛ハラミ
噛むほどに力強い旨みがあふれ出す。濃密なタレがその輪郭をくっきりと際立たせ、脂と赤身のバランスが見事。滋味深くも、どこか軽やか。
◇但馬玄40ヵ月肥育特上カルビ
40ヵ月の歳月を経て仕上がった但馬玄のサンカクバラは、脂がまるで絹のように舌に溶け、濃厚でありながら重さを感じさせない。タレがその甘みを引き立て、フィサンの赤ワインと重ねれば、果実味と肉の旨みが美しく響き合う。
◇但馬玄39ヵ月肥育サーロイン
39ヵ月育成の但馬玄サーロインは、片面だけ炙ることで肉の甘みと香ばしさが共鳴。漬け卵黄がまろやかなコクを加え、一口ごとに濃密な旨みが広がる。贅沢な時間を奏でる一皿だ。
◇シャーベット冷麵
ひんやりと舌に触れる牛骨シャーベットスープは、淡雪のように溶け、じんわりと旨みを残す。ギバサを練りこんだ麺は心地よい粘りと香りをまとい、へべすの酸が全体をキリリと引き締める。涼やかで、夏夜の締めにふさわしい逸品。
◇但馬玄しぐれ煮茶漬け
ほろほろと崩れる但馬玄のしぐれ煮に、ぶどう山椒の爽やかな香りがそっと重なる。そこへ注がれるのは、鰹出汁のやさしい温もり。旨みと香りが層を成し、食後の一杯にしてはあまりに贅沢。静かに満ちてゆく、余韻の茶漬けだ。
◇ジェラート
目の前で液体窒素の白煙が舞い、瞬時に仕上がるマンゴージェラートは、なめらかさと香りが段違い。添えられた果肉は完熟の甘みと酸が絶妙で、南国の陽射しを閉じ込めたかのよう。五感を遊ばせる、華やかなエピローグだ。
気がつけば、テーブルの上にあった皿の余白までもが愛おしく感じられた。
火入れの妙、香りの重なり、そして一皿ごとに仕掛けられた物語の断片。すべてが、ただ美味しかったでは済まされない体験として、静かに体内に沈んでいく。地下の個室に流れるゆるやかな時間は、まるで都会の喧騒から切り取られた別の章。
外に出た瞬間、ほんのわずかに後ろ髪を引かれる。その感覚こそが、この夜が本物だった証なのだ。
☆お土産（カレーパン）
帰り際に手渡されたのは、「365日」のパン生地に包まれた、但馬牛の旨みがぎゅっと詰まった特製カレーパン。翌朝、温め直して頬張れば、スパイスの香りとともに昨夜の余韻がふわりと蘇る。記憶を閉じ込めた一品は、最高の“翌朝のご褒美”だ。
是非また伺わせていただきます。
ご馳走様でした。