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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
お盆の赤坂は、蒸し返す夜気に沈んでいた。時計の針が20時を指しても、暑さは衰えを知らず、湿った風が歩を進めるたび肌に絡みつく。照り返しに揺れるビルの光の中を歩くと、街全体がひとつの舞台装置のように見えた。だがその幕は、まだ上がりきってはいなかった。
赤坂駅から数分。ホテルヒラリーズの一角に「焼肉割烹 ふみや」は静かに身を潜めている。白を基調とした清廉なカウンターは七席のみ。そこで供されるのは、黒毛和牛の赤身を昆布締めや自家製醤油麹で緻密に仕立てた逸品。タレに逃げず、肉の真髄を掘り起こす料理人の手業。その一皿は味覚を研ぎ澄ませ、思考をも引き込む。無煙の炉から立つ熱気は控えめで、服に香りを残さない。目の前で展開される所作を見届けるうち、客は知らず肉の新しい宇宙に踏み込んでいるという。
常に、その時に一番美味しいお肉を仕入れるというこちらのお店。
その日は、常陸牛をいただけるということで、カウンター席につき、以下のおまかせコースをいただいた。
◇前菜
・和牛カプレーゼ
・アキレスの湯引きポン酢
・牛すじ出汁のテリーヌ
ユッケの濃厚な旨みとチーズのまろやかさに、ジェノベーゼとオイル漬けバジルの爽やかさが重なる和牛カプレーゼ。アキレスの湯引きは弾む歯応えとポン酢の酸味が軽やかにリズムを作り、牛すじ出汁のテリーヌは凝縮された旨みが静かに広がる。三品それぞれの個性が絡み合い、口内で前菜の饗宴が完成する、計算と遊び心の両立した前菜の饗宴。
◇サラダ
・エディブルフラワーと和野菜のサラダ ノンオイル柚子ドレッシング
花の彩りと和野菜の滋味が響き合い、柚子の酸味が全体を軽やかにまとめる。口内に広がるのは、食卓に咲く夏の風景。
◇焼肉
・牛タン芯
厚みある牛タン芯は、噛むほどに澄んだ旨みが広がり、自家製ねぎ塩が清涼感を添えて味覚を引き締める。一口ごとに肉の存在感と塩気のアクセントが絶妙に絡み合い、静かに贅沢を味わわせる、焼肉の基本を超えた完成形の一枚。
・トウガラシ
何と肉を昆布締めにして3日間熟成させているのだとか。
昆布に抱かれ三日間寝かされたトウガラシは、しっとりと深みのある赤身へと昇華している。噛むたびに肉の甘みがじんわりと滲み出し、昆布の旨みと静かに共鳴する。一見シンプルだが、そのひと口に熟成の時間と職人の眼差しが凝縮され、肉をひとつ上の雅へと導いている。
・ミスジ
霜降りが織り込まれたミスジは、口に含むと肉の艶やかな甘みがじんわりと広がり、噛むほどに濃厚な旨みが押し寄せる。赤身の力強さと脂の滑らかさが絶妙に調和し、一枚で肉の華やかさと奥行きを体感させる、洗練された焼肉の一枚。
・カブリ
こちらは醤油麹に漬け込んで熟成させている。
醤油麹に漬け込まれたカブリは、深い旨みとまろやかなコクを纏い、生姜の清涼感が後味をさっぱりと引き締める。一口ごとに甘みと刺激が交錯し、濃厚さと爽快さが絶妙に絡み合う、計算された味わいの焼肉体験。
◇肉寿司
・幽庵漬け
幽庵地に潜ませたクリミは、しっとりと艶をまとい、食べた瞬間に香りが立ちのぼる。舌にのせれば甘みと柑橘の余波が溶け合い、寿司でありながら焼肉の記憶を呼び覚ます。職人の手さばきが一瞬を永遠に変える一貫。
・昆布締め
昆布で締めた赤身は、旨みがぎゅっと凝縮され、口に含むと澄んだ甘みが静かに広がる。昆布醤油の香りがそっと余韻を添え、端正でありながら奥行きのある味わいが、一口で舌と記憶に深く刻まれる肉寿司の完成形。
・肉軍艦
海苔ではなく生肉がシャリを抱き込み、その上に白ワインで香りづけした蒸しイクラが輝く。肉の濃厚さと魚卵の透明感が交錯し、重厚でありながら驚くほど清らかな余韻を残す。遊び心と技巧が融合した、唯一無二の肉軍艦。
・牛骨出汁味噌汁
牛骨の深みと仙台味噌の芳醇さが溶け合い、舌を優しく包む。肉寿司の余熱を静かに締めくくる一椀。
◇お食事
・X（和牛サンド）
ふんわりと蒸したマントウ風の生地に、上ミスジの和牛が艶やかに顔を覗かせる。マスカルポーネと粒マスタードのソースが濃厚さと刺激を絶妙に調和させ、赤玉ねぎとレモンマリネが軽やかな酸味を添える。トリュフオイルの芳香が全体を包み、わさび菜のほのかな辛みが後味を引き締める。色彩豊かな断面は視覚も楽しませ、ひと口ごとに計算された味の層が口内で踊る、現代的和牛サンドの完成形。
◇甘味
・くるみ餅氷
目の前で、懐かしいかき氷機から削られる氷は、軽やかに舞う雪のよう。くるみ餅のねっとりとした甘みが溶け込み、口内でふわりと広がる冷たさと温かみの絶妙なバランス。視覚と味覚が交錯し、ただの氷ではない、贅沢なひとときに変わる。
お店を出ると、赤坂の夜が優しく光を反射していた。舌に残る熟成肉の香りと、握られた寿司の温度は、まるで見えない糸で記憶に絡みつく。七席のカウンターで過ごした時間は短く、しかし濃密で、街の雑踏に紛れる前の静寂のように心に刻まれる。振り返っても店の灯は遠く、だがその光は、知らず知らずのうちに自分の足元を照らしていた。
是非また伺わせていただきます。
ご馳走様でした。