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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
十一月が静かに幕を閉じようとしていた。夜の銀座は、冬の気配を帯びた空気を震わせながら、街角ごとにクリスマスの灯を瞬かせている。コートの襟を立てて歩く人々の足取りには、寒さよりも期待が勝っていた。週末の喧騒がまだ本格化する前の、わずかな隙間の時間。その境目を確かめるように、光の川をゆっくりと進んだ。
銀座稲葉という店には、料理人・稲葉正信氏の思想が静かに脈打っている。「融通無碍」という言葉を掲げ、食材や器はもちろん、客の様子やその日の空気までも一皿に折り込もうとする姿勢である。炭火の微かな爆ぜる音、立ちのぼる湯気、旬の香りが呼応し合い、料理が目の前で息を吹き返すように立ち上がるという。店内には過度な演出はなく、ただ研ぎ澄まされた静けさが漂い、訪れた者の感覚を自然と料理へと向かわせる。
2025年「日本料理 TOKYO 百名店」に選ばれたという評価も、そうした真摯な営みの証なのだろう。
本日は以下のコースをいただいた。
●おまかせコース
◇香箱蟹の飯蒸し
鳥取の境港の香箱蟹の内子は濃厚で深みのある甘さを描き、外子は小気味よい粒感で海の力強さを伝える。蒸したおこわがその旨味を抱き止め、むかごの香ばしさが静かに彩りを添える。上に忍ばせた生姜が全体を凛とまとめ、ひと椀の中に海の豊穣が鮮やかに立ち上がった。
◇真魚鰹の揚げ物
真魚鰹は塩麹でほどよく締まり、炭酸衣の軽やかな揚げ上がりがその旨味をふわりと包む。噛むと、白身の上品さが泡のように広がり、後から自家製カラスミの味噌漬けが深い余韻を落としていく。軽快さと重厚さが同じ皿で共鳴する、静かな高揚をもたらす一品。
◇吹き寄せ仕立て 柚子釜盛り
見るからに美しい一品。柚子の器を開けると、白子のなめらかな旨みと白菜の瑞々しさが静かに香り立つ。ポン酢で洗った素材は輪郭が研ぎ澄まされ、土佐酢のジュレが透明な酸味で全体をまとめ上げる。秋の澄んだ空気を一口に凝縮したような、清らかさと艶を併せ持つ仕立てだ。
◇博多地鶏とごぼう、天然舞茸、和ゼリのお椀
鶏の清らかな旨味と鰹出汁の深みが重なり合い、椀の中に静かな温度をつくる。炭火で焼いた博多地鶏は香ばしさと弾力を湛え、ごぼうの香り、天然舞茸の野性味、三関の和ゼリの清涼感が次々に層を成す。柚子胡椒を溶けば、全体が一気に研ぎ澄まされ、秋の森をすすり込むような余韻が広がる。
◇河豚のお造り
豊後河豚をあえて厚めに切ることで、噛むたびに澄んだ旨味がゆっくりひらく。皮と身皮の弾力が重なり、細やかな刻みネギが香りの衣となって身を包む。おろしポン酢をつければ清流のように爽やかに、あん肝醤油なら深いコクが静かに迫る。二つの表情が交互に舌を奪う、巧みな一皿だ。
◇シマアジの漬け
藁焼きにされたシマアジは、香りの火種をそのまま身に宿したまま静かに漬けへと移ろう。噛めば、上質な脂が凪いだ海のように広がり、後から藁の余韻が細い線を引く。海苔醤油をまとわせれば深みが増し、福井の地がらしが鋭い切れ味で輪郭を整える。素朴と洗練が一口の中で見事に交差する。
◇焼き松葉ガニ
焼き上げた松葉ガニは、殻を割った瞬間に冬の海が香り立つ。一本目はしっかり火が入り、甘みが凝縮して端正な旨味が際立つ。二本目はレア気味に仕上げ、瑞々しさがほとばしるように舌でほどける。カニ味噌を添えれば濃厚な深みへ、カニ酢なら清冽な余白へ。火入れの違いが、同じ素材に二度の至福を与えてくれる。
◇新潟の真鴨と天恵菇
真鴨はしっとりと火が入り、凝縮した旨さが静かに広がる。その下で大きな高級椎茸の天恵菇が鴨の脂をたっぷり抱き込み、香りと力強さを同時に放つ。粗おろしの大根と塩を添えれば、重厚さに清らかな切れが差し込み、一皿の輪郭が鮮明になる。
◇フカヒレの旨煮
こちらのお店のスペシャリテ。
鶏の白湯が描く柔らかな濃度に、蟹出汁の深い香りが静かに重なり、フカヒレがひと筋の波のように舌の上を滑っていく。繊維はほどける直前の張りを保ち、旨味を内側に秘めたまま上品に解き放つ。上に忍ばせた松葉がにとカニ味噌が、まろやかなコクと海の余韻を加え、絹さやの青い香りが一瞬の軽さを添える。滋味と華やかさが同居する、まさに店の矜持を映す一皿だ。
◇今年の新米コシヒカリ 雪椿
南魚沼産の新米コシヒカリの最高級ブランド「雪椿」は、土鍋で炊き上げることで粒が光を帯び、噛むほどに甘みと豊かな旨味がほとばしる。金目の煮付けは濃厚な味わいで米の甘みを引き立て、ちりめん山椒がぴりりとアクセントを添える。香の物の軽やかな余韻が、口の中で白米の清冽さを際立たせ、一膳ごとに季節と土地の気配を味わえる、まさに新米の贅沢な歓びが詰まった食卓。
◇きつねうどん
鴨出汁が深く染みたつゆに、うどんはしなやかに揺れ、口の中で静かに広がる。絹豆腐で仕立てたお揚げは、触れるだけでほろりと崩れ、鴨そぼろの旨味がじんわり絡む。仕上げの柚子が香りの輪郭を描き、素朴ながらも計算された味の重なりが、ひと椀に冬の温もりを凝縮していた。
◇完熟柿とクリームチーズの大福と煎茶
完熟柿の濃密な甘みと、クリームチーズの軽やかな酸味が、もちもちの大福に包まれて絶妙に溶け合う。煎茶をひと口含めば、甘さの余韻がすっと引き、舌の上に季節の香りがそっと残る、一瞬の幸福感を味わえる一品。
◇山椒のガトーショコラとお抹茶
ほろ苦いガトーショコラに山椒の微かな刺激が潜み、口の中で深みを増す。料理長の点てた抹茶が香り高く絡み、甘さと渋み、辛みが静かに交錯する。小さな一口に、洗練と遊び心が共存する上質な余韻が残った。
最後の一口に熱い玄米茶を含み、体の奥まで温まる。皿の余韻が静かに胸に落ち着き、満たされた感覚が足取りを軽くする。外に出ると、銀座の夜は柔らかく光り、街路樹の影が淡く揺れる。人影の間を縫うように歩きながら、料理の記憶が胸の奥で静かに反響し、夜の街に溶けていく。そのひとときの幸福は、まるで自分だけの秘密の景色のように、ゆっくりと夜に消えていった。
素晴らしい空間・時間であった。
是非また伺わせていただきます。ご馳走様でした。