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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
十二月の夜気は、年末特有の焦燥を静かに孕んでいた。渋谷から代官山へ向かう道を歩くと、アスファルトが冷えきり、歩幅までもが引き締まっていく。店先の灯りが薄く揺れ、遠くで笑い声が弾ける。その音が、この街の真冬のリズムを刻んでいた。
渋谷と代官山のあいだに灯る小さな暖色。その扉をくぐれば、木の香りが静かに満ち、客の気配より先に炎の息遣いが迎えてくれた。
五勝手の料理は、薪火がつくる温度と音を余さず拾い上げたものばかり。厚切りの牛タンは炎に抱かれて旨みを深め、肉バーグには薪の薫香がわずかな影のように寄り添うという。鮮魚や旬菜を扱う一皿には、料理人の細やかな仕事が光り、締めの入麺には出汁の輪郭が端正に立ち上がる。和の静けさと創意の昂りが同じ卓で呼吸する──そんな時間を求める人には、この店は確かに魅力的だ。
本日は以下の料理をいただいた。
◇お通し（サワラの椀）
レア気味のサワラは、湯気とともに静かにほどけ、澄んだ旨みをふわりと放つ。魚介の滋味がひと筋の光のように舌を照らし、最初のひと口でこの店の矜持が伝わる。控えめな見た目ながら、序章としての完成度は驚くほど高い。
◇金目鯛とカリフラワーの春菊サラダ
炙った金目鯛の香ばしさが鮮烈で、ほろ苦い春菊と甘みを抱えたカリフラワーが見事に呼応する。軽やかな一皿でありながら、素材の輪郭を明晰に描き出す力量に思わず頷く。
◇イカと甘エビのキャビア和え
濃密な甘エビに、イカの淡く澄んだ食感が寄り添い、キャビアが細やかな塩気で全体を締める。贅沢さよりも“調和”が主役に立つ、静かな洗練を湛えた一品。
◇お造り六点盛り
白子は出汁とポン酢でとろりと溶け、塩釜産の熟成本マグロは時間が与えた深みを力強く響かせる。ヒラメの清廉な甘み、金華鯖の凛とした酸、島根産イシダイの端正な歯応え、サワラの滑らかな脂。六種がそれぞれ異なる物語を語りながらも、不思議と一枚の絵に収まっていく。
◇薪香るポテトチップス
薄く揚げた芋に薪の香りがほのかに纏い、噛むほどに甘みと薫香が重なる。単なる前菜の領域を越え、序盤の空気を一段引き上げる存在感がある。
◇白子入り四川麻婆豆腐「せせりミンチ」
白子の濃厚なコクが、花椒の痺れとせせりミンチの旨みと共鳴する。刺激とまろみが交互に押し寄せ、舌が揺さぶられるような躍動感に満ちた麻婆。癖になり止まらなくなる。
◇薪焼き肉バーグ 味噌赤ワインソース
蓋を取ると、グツグツと煮える様が良い。薪火で焦がした香ばしさと、肉の力強さが噛むたびに湧き立つ。味噌と赤ワインの陰影あるソースがその余力をさらに深化させ、満足ではなく“説得力”を残すハンバーグ。
◇サワラの春巻き生粒黒コショウ
軽い衣に閉じ込められたサワラの旨みを、生粒黒コショウの香りが鋭く引き締める。パリパリッと、ひと口の爽快感が心地よい。
◇ブリと大黒しめじの小鍋
脂の乗ったブリがそっとほどけ、大黒しめじの薫りが出汁の奥行きを広げる。控えめながら魂の芯を温めるような、冬に寄り添う小鍋。
◇肴になる食パン 海苔イカ
香ばしい食パンに海苔の風味とイカの旨みが重なり、シンプルさゆえに印象が鮮明に残る。つまみの発想を軽やかに裏切る一品。
◇鴨と茄子の入麺
鴨の旨みをたっぷり含んだ出汁がまず圧倒し、茄子はその熱をふくみながら柔らかくほどける。麺をすすると香りが立ち、締めでありながら主役の風格を宿す。
◇洋梨とブルーベリーの大福
瑞々しい洋梨の甘さにブルーベリーの酸が重なり、求肥がその調和を優しく包む。果実を際立たせる上品な甘み。
◇リンゴと葡萄のきな粉アイス
富士リンゴの澄んだ甘さに葡萄の余韻が溶け、きな粉アイスが全体を柔らかくまとめる。和の香りが品よく漂う、静かな締めくくり。
店を出た瞬間、満腹の温もりが腹の奥にまだ微かに残っていた。夜気は歩幅を急かすように冷たく、渋谷の灯りが湿った路面に散らばる。人波の向こうへ吸い込まれるたび、さっきまでの喧騒が遠ざかり、街の光だけが静かに背中を押した。気づけば、自分の影だけが先に都会へと滑り込んでいた。
是非また伺わせていただきます。
ご馳走様でした。